POS starter, bad sounds

[BobbyZ72]

Just thinking, your t-stat is installed the correct way right, with the sping thing inside the engine? That could explane your overheating problems,,,, but if this was the case your heater whould still work.

[slow6]

the w/p used to work with the lightweight ZZP pulley (its supposed to last longer)

[CDNFB]

Vapor locks will cause lack of coolant flow and overheating as well, and these F-bodies (because of the radiator placement lower than the engine) will vapor lock very quickly any air gets into the system.

With the engine running, open the coolant bleeder and check if any air or steam is released. If you find that there is air in the system use the bleeder to remove all the air, then see what your temps are like. If your temps go high again, check again for air. If you are continually getting air into the system, suspect a bad head gasket.

DZ

[slow6]

i always bleed and bleed and bleed
it still gives air continuously with a little water.
I refil radiator again, then bleed (once engine is above 195F)

I used to run HIGH AFR because my MAF wasnt calibrated right. High AFR = 18.0+++
I cant see my head gasket being broken since I've been running high AFR and it still working...

THANKS GUYS!!!

[slow6]

Is there anything special I need to know for replacing a Starter or Alternator?

I'm gonna buy a MPI Starter from Oreillys
and get a 160amp alternator off ebay

[BobbyZ72]

as long as you dont buy any cheap rebuilt crap youll be ok.

[Kidcamaro98]

you most likely need a new starter. My stock starter did the same exact thing you expalined..it buzzed and once my car heated up real well and you shut it off and went to go start it again it wouldnt turn over...or even click like the battery was dead but you still had power for everything. I just got a new starter...it was 100$ for our cars and replaced the old one. Its a self do job its pretty easy. Ever since i put a brand new starter in it its ran great and no more problems. Hope this helps

[slow6]

Originally posted by CDNFB:
Vapor locks will cause lack of coolant flow and overheating as well, and these F-bodies (because of the radiator placement lower than the engine) will vapor lock very quickly any air gets into the system.

With the engine running, open the coolant bleeder and check if any air or steam is released. If you find that there is air in the system use the bleeder to remove all the air, then see what your temps are like. If your temps go high again, check again for air. If you are continually getting air into the system, suspect a bad head gasket.

DZ

Where does all my coolant go? I cant find any leaks.

[CDNFB]

Head gasket failures occur in various severities and for many reasons, not exclusively due to improper AFRs.

When you are bleeding the system are you actually loosing coolant? Having to constantly add to keep the level up?

When a head gasket leak introduces air into the cooling system it displaces the coolant. The coolant has to go somewhere and will migrate to the overflow reservoir. I've seen cases where the reservoir gets so full that it overflows.

If you are indeed loosing coolant but cannot find any external leaks or cannot see any coolant overflowing from the reservoir, suspect internal leakage into the engine oil system (oil pan), and/or into the cylinder(s) itself. Pull the engine oil dipstick and check for evidence of coolant in the oil. If coolant is getting in the engine oil DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!! If you ignore this situation and continue to run your engine you will destroy it!

To check if coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), remove and check the sparkplugs. An excessively clean spark plug (no deposits) is an indicator of where your leak is. Also if you are discharging white smoke that smells kinda sweet from your exhaust then you really have a bad leak.

Please note that a cracked block or head can have the same symptoms as a failed head gasket.

If your bleeding as much as you say you are then I would say that the engine is pumping air into the cooling system to the degree that the bleeder cannot keep up, chances are you got a head gasket problem or cracked head/or block.

Keep on bleeding and cross your fingers!!!

DZ

[CDNFB]

Your not running NOX or Forced Induction are you?

[slow6]

Originally posted by CDNFB:
Your not running NOX or Forced Induction are you?

Not yet, why?

Originally posted by CDNFB:
Head gasket failures occur in various severities and for many reasons, not exclusively due to improper AFRs.

I meant, the High Lean AFR would probably make the gasket alot worse

When you are bleeding the system are you actually loosing coolant? Having to constantly add to keep the level up?

Not that severe, its mainly air that comes out, and keeps coming...

When a head gasket leak introduces air into the cooling system it displaces the coolant. The coolant has to go somewhere and will migrate to the overflow reservoir. I've seen cases where the reservoir gets so full that it overflows.

If you are indeed loosing coolant but cannot find any external leaks or cannot see any coolant overflowing from the reservoir, suspect internal leakage into the engine oil system (oil pan), and/or into the cylinder(s) itself. Pull the engine oil dipstick and check for evidence of coolant in the oil. If coolant is getting in the engine oil DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!! If you ignore this situation and continue to run your engine you will destroy it!

How am I gonna check for coolant in the oil just by looking at the dipstick? Maybe it would be easier to drop the oil pan?

To check if coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), remove and check the sparkplugs. An excessively clean spark plug (no deposits) is an indicator of where your leak is. Also if you are discharging white smoke that smells kinda sweet from your exhaust then you really have a bad leak.

I think I have shot out white smoke before, but its only happened like once or twice.

Please note that a cracked block or head can have the same symptoms as a failed head gasket.

If your bleeding as much as you say you are then I would say that the engine is pumping air into the cooling system to the degree that the bleeder cannot keep up, chances are you got a head gasket problem or cracked head/or block.

Keep on bleeding and cross your fingers!!!

DZ

I really hope its not a cracked block, I think it could be possible. I would've thought that a cracked block symptoms would be very obvious and would appear immediately (like not starting).

Why would I have WATER leaking out my Y-pipe??????
I see liquid coming out of peoples tail pipes all the time and I wonder... Is it unburned fuel? Or is it coolant????????????

THANKS SO MUCH, got EVERYTHING crossed!!!!

[slow6]

bumped
^
|

[CDNFB]

Sorry I haven't responded sooner. Haven't had a chance to check this post.

The likelyhood of blowing a head gasket is substantially increased with excessively high cylinder pressures, like those seen with forced induction or NOX.

I think that higher combustion temps seen with leaner AFR and with that comes the increased possibility of pre-ignition and detonation would make the situation worse.

If your bleeding and the air just keeps on comming, there is something pumping it in there. Now you gotta figure out where the failure is.

You have coolant in the oil if you see that the oil on the dipstick has a cloudy or milky look to it. The older the oil the more milky it will look. Because new oil is more transparent it will not look as milky and may be harder to see. In really bad cases you can actually see the coolant itself on the dipstick! Dropping the oilpan isn't an easy thing to do. I would drain the oil first and check the contents of the container that you captured the oil in. If there is coolant in the oil you will see it there.

Head gasket leaks have a variety of symptoms, each of which depends on where the gasket failure is and how severe a failure it is. You don't always get coolant in the cylinder or oil system.

I've seen a few cars drive for many years with headgasket leaks that only pumped air into the cooling system and no oil contamination or white smoke from the exhaust. The air would restrict the cooling flow and the engine would heat up (higher than normal operating temp), the block and head would then thermally expand closing off the leak. Then the vapor lock would slowly find it's way to the radiator where it would vent out through the overflow reservoir. At this point the full flow of the coolant would be restored and the engine temp would drop, at which point the leak would open up again (because the block and heads would thermally contract or relax). All the driver would see (if he had a temp gauge) would be a constantly rising and falling engine temp. Cracked blocks and heads can exhibit the same symptoms (again depending on the severity and location of the crack). The f-body that we drive cannot do this because it cannot vent through the radiator and overflow reservoir. The only way a vapor lock can be released from the engine is through the bleeder. An F-body car with air in the engine is going to have higher coolant temps. The more air, the slower the flow, the higher the temps.

DZ

[slow6]

my temp gauge goes way up, then drops
looks like I'm S.O.L.
thanks!!!

[slow6]

>bobbyz72

I touched both sides of the radiator right after the engine reached 240F and died on its own.
I think it cant idle when the temp is that high.

anyways, both sides were cold. WTF?

Is my cooling system clogged in some way? Is the W/P broken/clogged?

I keep having to add water, I will check the overflow reservoir today.