CIA Header install!!! Help! - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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  • #16
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Redsix:
    As far as the drivers side, what do yall recommend using to remove that stud??<hr></blockquote>

    YOU SHOULD *NOT* NEED TO DO ANYTHING TO THE STUD TO INSTALL CIA HEADERS!

    In fact, you shouldn't need to do anything to the driver's side.

    I seriously think you're doing something wrong if you're talking about having to disassemble the steering column and shave down studs just to get the driver's side header in. If you've correctly followed the steps in the header install guide, you should have LOTS of space on the driver's side for the header to slide in.

    Maybe you should have a fellow car buddy double-check what you're trying to do. Just a thought.
    -James<br /><br />\'96 3.8L A4 Camaro (SOLD)

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    • #17
      This has not only been a nice task but a really big learning experience. Mission accomplished for now. On the passenger side I took John Duncan's picture into good use. I had to bend the crap out of the a/c line to make room. After this, everything fir like a glove. [img]smile.gif[/img] On the drivers side I had to remove the steering column, no BUTS ABOUT IT. After I removed it, everything fit like a glove. All I have left is to install my new taylor wires and finish putting on the y-pipe. This should be a no brainer. I hope future V6 owners will find this miniture troubleshooting gide useful if they come across this when they purchase their CIA headers. My good friend Matt installed his in 4 hours. Me, on the other hand, have been through about 2 good days worth of work to finish. I had all of the things that could have gone wrong happen. These are still the best headers that you can buy. The quality is awsome and they really do fit well once everything has been worked out. Thank you guys for all of your help and I hope for the best for all of yall. :cool:
      Now to install the LCAs and PHR..... [img]tongue.gif[/img]

      [ August 20, 2002: Message edited by: Redsix ]</p>
      <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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      • #18
        I was saying to remove the stud on the RKSPORT headers. IM not sure if this is the case on the CIA headers. I dont know why everyone is making a big deal about this. The studs come out very easy and make lots more room for the install. Just place a small socket on the end of the stud whichever fits I forget and loosen the stud tell it comes out. Then reinstall the stud when headers are in place. Why would you remove the stearing column when you can just do this?

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        • #19
          I'm sure removing the stud could of been a choice but when I removed the steering column in 10 minutes, I preffer this route. All you have to do is tighten the piss out of the bolts when you put the column back. Anyways, a huge shout out to all of those who helped me out on the board. I'm taking the bird to an exhaust shop today to have the cat welded. I'm probably going to leave the s-pipe and redyno the car and see what happens. Most people are telling me to do this because 3" completely all the way back is not all that great on 6'ers. The s-pipe will add a little bit of back pressure. Afterall, the new headers and y-pipe should be a huge help to jack those dyno numbers up some more. :D

          [ August 20, 2002: Message edited by: Redsix ]</p>
          <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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          • #20
            Cool, im glad you got them installed. Sounds like it went well.


            And it only took me about 15 seconds to remove the stud. And my dad could beat up your dad.

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            • #21
              get the 3" s-pipe. i have the CIA headers, stock cat with reducer cut off to make it a 3" cat. 3" s-pipe and 3" borla cat-back with the full block off plate. this is by far the best setup i've had. i dynoed. 179rwhp but the catch is that was only with 3 degrees of spark advance and 14 degrees of knock retard. with 26 or so degrees of advance i should be around 200rwhp.
              i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

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              • #22
                I'm glad this worked out for you. Some people said they didn't have to bend the a/c line at all, but as you know, on ours anyway it has to move a whole lot to get that header in there.

                You'll really like it when it's all done!!
                \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                • #23
                  yall make me sooo damn jealous with all this talk of full exhaust.. I sooo want to do this.. but can't afford to get myself in any more debt right now.. :( oah well guess I'll live vicariously through everyone else..
                  -Brad
                  98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
                  2000 V-Star Custom 1100
                  If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
                  :rock:

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                  • #24
                    what would I use to cut the stud.....I'm currently trying to get my CIa headers on and I can't get the drivers side on. Thanks
                    <b>99\' Black Camaro SS</b> <br />M6/T-Tops - SLPLid w/K&N | Hurst Billet Plus w/ LSS | EGR Mod<p>Black 97\' Camaro T-Tops (RIP)

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                    • #25
                      Remove the steering column off and the headers should slide right in. This is what I did. Before you remove the steering column, make sure the whells and the steering wheel are STRAIGHT.. Thats all. [img]smile.gif[/img]
                      <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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