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  • CIA Header install!!! Help!

    I'm having kind of a hell of a time to put these things on. I gues I'm not the first one to run into this but I think there are A/C lines in the way or something?? I got the passenger exhaust manifold off but the CIA header wont easly slip in?? I don't know what to do. :( I am tired right now and I'm gonna sleep on it but a link to a nice walkthrough or something wouldbe greatly appreciated. I thought this would be easier but I guess I'm wrong. :(
    <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

  • #2
    Are you back up at College station now Cause i got mine throught it took work but they made it past and if you are still in town i may be able to help you tomarrow after 6:00 of you dont get it by then call my cell you can get it in the Sick - Sixx forum. Do a search for Member list
    <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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    • #3
      Thanks for the offer to help but unfortunately I'm in College Station now and can'treally do anything about that but I'll try to do a quick search for more pointers. I thought the hardest thing was having to take of the manifolds but I was kinda crushed to see that the CIA's didn't just fitt in nice and snugg. :( They will need some work to get in there so the two things that I have is time and patience. We'll see. Thanks again guys.

      [ August 18, 2002: Message edited by: Redsix ]</p>
      <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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      • #4
        I know for the rk sports on the drivers side you had to take the bolt out of the motor mount and jack the engine up a bit to get them in. I don't know if this helps but would lifting or lowering the motor a bit help?
        Keith - 99 'maro - White M5 - bumpstick and boltons - 13.65 @ 101 N/A
        "I ain't too big to listen to the rumors, I'm just too @#$% big to pay attention to them" - Dr. Dre
        http://seppo.hopto.org/

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        • #5
          The a/c lines on the passangerside are the ones in the way. I have one more nut to undo before I can get the drivers side manifold off. This has been a pretty big chore for me. This is the biggest task I've taken on by myself and with a little bit of help from others. I tip my hat to anyone who turns their own wrenches. I'll keep yall updated. I'm not sure if jacking up the engine would help but I'll take it into consideration.Thanks all.

          [ August 18, 2002: Message edited by: Redsix ]</p>
          <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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          • #6
            for my RKsports i didnt have to do anything to the engine i just slid them in no big deal.
            <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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            • #7
              No, you don't need to jack up the engine to put the CIA's on.

              The AC lines on some people's cars come in contact with the headers. Mine did, though I was able to get them in and bolten on first no problem.

              Just take some kind of prybar and nudge the AC lines over. No big deal.

              EDIT: Oh, and taking the old manifolds off IS the hardest part. So if you've got that done, you're most of the way there.

              [ August 18, 2002: Message edited by: RacerJ ]</p>
              -James<br /><br />\'96 3.8L A4 Camaro (SOLD)

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              • #8
                I've removed both manifolds. I tried to instal the header on the driver side and now the steering column is in the way I will try to undo the steering column and slide it in. I think this one will be fine but the other one will need more work.I'll try the prybar but before that I will email Dan himself for tips and suggestions... maybe a little explination too :rolleyes:
                <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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                • #9
                  Okay, DON'T take apart the steering column! There's just no way in hell that you need to mess with the steering to get the headers in. If you were able to pull out the stock manifolds, the CIAs should be cake to slide in.

                  Did you bother reading the header install guide on this site before starting this little project? If not, then go to http://reviews.firebirdv6.com/rksport38headers.html and read the writeup before you do anything else. I know that it's for the RKSport headers, but almost all of it still applies for the CIAs.
                  -James<br /><br />\'96 3.8L A4 Camaro (SOLD)

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                  • #10
                    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69:
                    for my RKsports i didnt have to do anything to the engine i just slid them in no big deal.<hr></blockquote>

                    Hey what did you do about the driverside header? Have you noticed it wont fit over the stud because the stearing column is too much in the way. What method did you use in getting around this?

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                    • #11
                      I had to bend one a/c line quite a bit. There's a picture of what the lines look like after the install, on the site in my sig. Click on the picture for a bigger view.

                      I didn't have any clearance problems on the driver's side. I didn't have a stud though. If you do, you will probably need to take it out.

                      I put both headers in place from underneath the car, then came back up on top to bolt them up.

                      Watch out for slightly mismatched holes that will likely cause crossthreaded bolts into the head.
                      \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:
                        I had to bend one a/c line quite a bit. There's a picture of what the lines look like after the install, on the site in my sig. Click on the picture for a bigger view.

                        I didn't have any clearance problems on the driver's side. I didn't have a stud though. If you do, you will probably need to take it out.

                        I put both headers in place from underneath the car, then came back up on top to bolt them up.

                        Watch out for slightly mismatched holes that will likely cause crossthreaded bolts into the head.
                        <hr></blockquote>


                        I was referring to the stud in the head. There is clearence problems on the RKSPORT headers because the flange can not make it around the stud that is in the head. You can only move it back so far because of the stearing column. Lots of people cut the stud. I simply took the stud out then put it back in when I got the header in place.

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                        • #13
                          Great Picture John!! This really helps. I'm going to have to bend that line as much as you to get that damn header on. As far as the drivers side, what do yall recommend using to remove that stud?? This has been like the longest header install in history. :D
                          <b>Red 1999 Firebird M5</b><br />Whisper Lid,Borla Catback,K&N,Dual Friction Center Force Clutch,Hurst Shifter w/Lou\'s Short Stick,!FRA,Suncoast Ramair hood,160 Thermo,!maf,Chrome ZO6 Wheels, Painted Calipers, CIA Headers, Taylor Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, 3\" Catco, Jet Chip Stage II, BMR STB, LCA, PHR, SFC, Fan Switch, FTRA<br /><b>Old Dyno Numbers: 183 RWHP, 217 RWTRQ</b><br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/redsixer</a>

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                          • #14
                            I used the push and monever method to get mine in no shaving no cuting no removing anything but the old manifold
                            <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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                            • #15
                              I haven't done a header install but to remove a stud i usually just find 2 nuts that fit the stud...
                              then

                              i place one nut on then the other... then i back up the first nut so that in comes in contact with the 2nd one... then you continue to apply pressure on the first nut till the stud starts to come out. i hope this helps
                              <b>Black 1996 Firebird</b><br /><b>Newest Edition: Harlan Window Switch</b><br />Nitrous Express Kit,ASCD big block hood, SLP Loudmouth, CATCO hi-flow cat, CAI, -Maf, LSD, Flameball Shifter<br /><b>Best N/A 1/4 in</b> 15.216 @ 89.82 <b>Best N2O 1/4 in</b> 14.352 @ 97.46 &lt;--w/clutch slippage<br /><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/motorhead69/\" target=\"_blank\">My homepage</a><br /><b>AIM:</b>MotorHead75068 <b>YIM:</b>MotorHead69

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