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the trans comes out without taking the converter bolts out. Those 2 top bolts are a pain, but it is possible to get them out the way i told you. get a long *** extension with a swivel on the end and get it from the back of the trans.
and yes it's normal for the trans to just hang there, its when the bellhousing bolts are out that you have to worry
the trans comes out without taking the converter bolts out. Those 2 top bolts are a pain, but it is possible to get them out the way i told you. get a long *** extension with a swivel on the end and get it from the back of the trans.
and yes it's normal for the trans to just hang there, its when the bellhousing bolts are out that you have to worry
i can see the top bolts now, but i can also see thats it physically impossible to get any kind of socket on them. something is holding the tranny from tilting back enough to allow access to the bolts, and i have a feeling its the 2 bottom bolts that bolt the tranny to oil pan bracket, i think you had the same problem meaty. they wont clear my Y pipe so im thinking about cutting the head off and unscrewing them - the manual bellhousing doesnt even have holes for them anyways.
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
yeah i know what your talking about. those bolts arent connected to the oilpan though they connect to the moter mounts.
You can try and loosen the bolts and swing the bracket back. I just dont think that is your problem. I dont think the trans tilts back as far as you think it does.
i had to use an alosr 4' long extension with a swivel on the end to get to the bolts on my car
Everytime I've removed a trans, reaching the top two bolts required the use of the longest extention in existance. There's a chance that if you run your hand up along the top of you trans, you'll be able to feel them... probably hidden behind a wiring harness-loom thing.
*The top of your bellhousing is flat and there's a bolt on each end.
... This bolt, that bolt... and the flex plate bolts (put car in Neutral and turn crank to reach the three flex plat bolts. ....
Silly question ... did you remove the inspection cover from the bottom of your auto? Gonna need to do that to get to the converter.
You should read this one again, Those bolts are hard to get to on the top of the bell housing, But you get them from the bottom of the car . You might be able to see them looking up at the bell housing from the back of the trans pan, on either side of the tail shaft. Use a swivel socket and a 3 or 4 foot extension.
If you don't unbolt the torque converter before you try to drop the trans, chances are you will hurt yourself when the trans slides back far enough to drop( if the floor of the car lets it slide back that far). I would put the lower bell housing bolts back in until the others that are harder to get to are all out , including the 3 converter bolts.
What year car is this on 97-down those brackets from the sides of the block to the inspection cover need to come completely off.
I am not sure it will work on 3.8, but I had similar problem with my LT1. This is how I did it. I took a jack, put a piece of wood between it and harmonic balancer in front of an engine and GENTLY pushed it straight up. Motor mounts has some flexibility and that allowed to tilt engine/tranny a little, after that LONG extension with SWIVEL socket; and the bolts were out in a minute.
You should read this one again, Those bolts are hard to get to on the top of the bell housing, But you get them from the bottom of the car . You might be able to see them looking up at the bell housing from the back of the trans pan, on either side of the tail shaft. Use a swivel socket and a 3 or 4 foot extension.
If you don't unbolt the torque converter before you try to drop the trans, chances are you will hurt yourself when the trans slides back far enough to drop( if the floor of the car lets it slide back that far). I would put the lower bell housing bolts back in until the others that are harder to get to are all out , including the 3 converter bolts.
What year car is this on 97-down those brackets from the sides of the block to the inspection cover need to come completely off.
Brian
I must have been half asleep when I wrote that .. or I was referencing the conversion -- flex plate bolts don't come out until the whole trans/converter assembly is sitting on the floor.
Additional note, you can get the trans to tilt more if you jack up the front of the motor -- if you are working on jackstands (which it sounds like you are) be VERY VERY careful if you try jacking up the front of the motor -- watch your jackstands closely.
I must have been half asleep when I wrote that .. or I was referencing the conversion -- flex plate bolts don't come out until the whole trans/converter assembly is sitting on the floor.
Additional note, you can get the trans to tilt more if you jack up the front of the motor -- if you are working on jackstands (which it sounds like you are) be VERY VERY careful if you try jacking up the front of the motor -- watch your jackstands closely.
hmm good idea, and yeah ill be careful, ive had bad experience with what your talking about.
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
I had a mustang fall on me once while installing the rear... kinda landed on my knee - no one got hurt, we all had a good laugh. lol
Use a 2x4 or something soft and jack carefully on the crank pulley.
thats crazy you didnt get hurt :eek:
but i just went a jacked it up under the K member I believe its called? that didnt work too good, jacked the whole car up instead of just the engine. whats does the crank pulley look like? i dont want to jack up the wrong thing and break something, lol
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
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