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  • Originally posted by Docta View Post
    Of course not!... I don't even have an EGR on the car. Any more. But good, glad to hear it was an easy fix.
    Yea I know , it might be going in the shop. Maybe a new engine in mind if its needed. Its going in for that oil leak. I can't find it so i might have the engine torn down to pin point that and a knocking sound. More details in about 2 days.

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    • Well today I had my friend trll me about a guy who was parting out his w68 .
      I got some parts dirt cheap

      I got all of the plastic gaurds under the front end, sun visors, t-top shades, and the center fiasca(how ever you spell it) all for 50 bucks.

      He said I he does not sell the dash pad, the honey come tail lights and leather seats front and back. I can have em all for 200 bucks what a score if they don't sell!!

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      • Well my friend got the dash and the guy sold the tail lights :( but the seats are still up for grabs :)

        Any ways
        So. This morning I let the engine warm up a bit to get the oil flowing through. About 4 min. I needed the colant to get hot fast so it coukd start to defrost the Windows, so I reved it about 2750-3000 rpm for about 3 min straight. Then my engine light flashed for about 5 seconds and went away. I know it was a misfire but did not feel anything. Drove to work nothing out of the norm. After work went to get the light checked. Same codes as before which was the knock sensor in bank 2. No misfire codes?

        Yall think this was from the engine not fully heated up and me reving it to get it up from temp? I think it is right?

        I have found the oil leak also (i belive) , got home a d decided to take some time to see where the smoke kept coming from. looks like the drivers side valve cover came a bit lose and little by little oil leaked out. I tightened it and no more smoke or the smell of burnt oil was bieng shown. I reved the engine for a while trying to see if anything would smoke or any smell would be noticeable. And nothing. Going to keep a close eye on it. Hopefully it was that and not anything any worse.
        That's it for now I guess. For now :)


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        • Hey guys so I'm going to start to save up for a new engine and I'm going for a stock rebuild or a stock replace ment that will be new

          The current one is still leaking and I'm statting to hear some knockinh noise. Maybe the piston rod? I sony know yet. And so my valve seats ate going bad. Causes oil bieng burnt up and smoke to apear after the engine running at idle for a while.

          Might do it at home and maybe do a write up of how to swap a engine (this Will be my first time doing it) so that bieng said its still a maybe. Depending on time and the cost of the extra tools.


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          • Heu guys I need some input since a lot of you guys on here are way more experienced than me.

            So as you know right now I need a need engine. And I need it withing the next 3-5 months.

            There for I have an option of saving up the 2100 dollars and buying a long block remanufactured and just swaping the accessorys over from my curent engine. And keep it stock.

            Or buy my self a used block and rebuild it my self. If I go this route I will tear it down my self with a lot of questions from me on how to do so.
            The bare block I would send to a shop to get redone. And have it come back with the botom end done. And I do the top end my self again with lots of questions asked about how to and where to get the info from. I have read the head and cam bible. Cam installation, and such. I want to go with a light port and polished heads. Something street usible along with the cam. Upper and lower intake polished ,The p/s pump, water pump,alternator and some pulleys will be new.

            I would love to build it my self and have found an engine that's for sale for 100 bucks. It has water in the oil and has 200+k on it. But seems to good to be true idk? A maybe on that or I can get a already working one for 600 I belive and do the same and build it. I would still need to get the tools. Torque sticks sockets, misc gaskets , parts, engine stand. You know the drill.

            Any opinions? And help if you would offer any? This will be my first engine rebuild ever. If I do it my self.

            Thanks in advanced guys

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            • Re: RAGE'S transformation

              If you can wait until March or April, I'll sell you the ARH heads and Intense Stage 3 cam from my motor...

              Don't waste your money on a re-man engine unless you are planning to keep it stock. If you want anything done to it, buy a decently low mile used L26 and do heads and cam. If you do the bottom end, it'll cost more yet. A hone means new pistons, and unless you're increasing the compression, there's no sense in wasting money on boring it at all.
              aka FreedStyle
              Chaddrich Freed

              (1 of 443) 2002 SLP Firebird GT #107 (244rwhp/254rwtq naturally aspirated)
              2008 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L 4x4

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              • Originally posted by CFreed11 View Post
                If you can wait until March or April, I'll sell you the ARH heads and Intense Stage 3 cam from my motor...

                Don't waste your money on a re-man engine unless you are planning to keep it stock. If you want anything done to it, buy a decently low mile used L26 and do heads and cam. If you do the bottom end, it'll cost more yet. A hone means new pistons, and unless you're increasing the compression, there's no sense in wasting money on boring it at all.
                Aren't the l26 in gran prixes? And there's always the chance of it bieng a bad engine also. I've only had this curent l36 in my firebirs for a year and a half now and its already making ticking noises and the oil presure is always at 60 so I'm guessing the oil presure valve is stuck almost closed. I've tooked care of it , I guess its just bad luck again :( I just did some crslisting and found an 08 prix with the l26. Should be a low mile car.

                Also What are the differences again? Between the 26 and 36?
                I

                But about the heads snd cam I would be intrested no doubt. How many miles are on them?
                I'm going to post a wanted thread on here snd ftv6 to see if I can get some parts that people don't need that I would lol

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                • Re: RAGE'S transformation

                  Pull the valve covers, oil pan, and even the heads if possible before you buy. The condition of the remaining oil will tell you a lot. '05+ L26's all came with the same powdered metal connecting rods that the supercharged motors had. They also had the slightly larger intake valves.

                  As far as my setup goes, the heads have ~10,000 miles, the cam has ~7,000 miles.
                  aka FreedStyle
                  Chaddrich Freed

                  (1 of 443) 2002 SLP Firebird GT #107 (244rwhp/254rwtq naturally aspirated)
                  2008 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L 4x4

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                  • Well I just found a l26 from a 08 grand prix. 81000 miles and a 30 day waranty.

                    But they won't let me pull the heads only thing I can go off of is the oil and co dition of the out side. Hopefully they still have it within the next 2 weeks I know I will have the cash by then. This week end I'm going to buy the engine stand and misc tool I will need.

                    Any that of yall know of that I will need other than the obvious?

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                    • Started to hear the knocking noise even worse now
                      I belive its a piston rod knocking against the crack shaft.
                      Its louder at a cold start which makes since since when the engine heats up things expand a bit but at normal temp its still a bit noticable

                      Hopefully it don't mess up badly untill 3 to 5 months from now.

                      Any of you guys want to take a guess I could take some video if yall want?


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                      • Re: RAGE'S transformation

                        Spun bearing

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                        • Originally posted by alex553 View Post
                          Spun bearing
                          If it was that woukd my oil psi drop a lot?


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                          • Re: RAGE'S transformation

                            Mine didn't, I drove the car with a spun bearing for about a year before I rebuilt the engine

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                            • Originally posted by alex553 View Post
                              Mine didn't, I drove the car with a spun bearing for about a year before I rebuilt the engine
                              Hmm well il find out what it is when I take the engine out 3-5 months from now if everything goes acording to plan. For now il leave it alone and hope for the best. I won't go to hard on it . Just need it to take me where I need it to while I get the new engine plus misc stuff:)

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                              • Re: RAGE'S transformation

                                Just remember to put reliability ahead of performance if this is your only vehicle..
                                aka FreedStyle
                                Chaddrich Freed

                                (1 of 443) 2002 SLP Firebird GT #107 (244rwhp/254rwtq naturally aspirated)
                                2008 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L 4x4

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