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I am in an area with no emission thus, i pose my question.
"If im not comprimising my velocity, and dont mind some sound would a straight exhaust (no cats or muffler) be benefficial towards the cars performance?"
Basically I need to learn about back pressure. ( and yes, how to spell)
with straight pipes, your car will probably feel like a dog while taking off, your low end will suffer
there is no truth to no back pressure will ruin your engine etc... i dont know where it came from, but i have run my (other) car with open headers and have not had any problems.. not to mention all of the people who race at the track on a weekly basis
next thing, is you will not like the sound from straight pipes, it is going to make your car sound like crap.. like one of those 1992 honda civics with bad rings and a wing on the back and a fart can
personally, i would just take the cat off, and replace the muffler
Please read before posting questions as I'll try to answer some of the commonly asked questions in this thread.
Q: Hi, I just bought my V6 Camaro/Firebird, where should I begin modding first?
A: The best place to start is with simple bolt ons. Bolt on mods are modifications that do not require you to go into the internal engine.
Q: I'm looking to get a cat-back exhaust system, which one is the best?
A: That depends on what you mean by best. If you're looking for the best flowing exhaust the answer is simple: any cat-back that you see on the market is going to give you the same HP gains, give or take 1-3 HP on the top end which you'll probably never use on the street or the track. Now, if you're wanting the best sounding there is one thing you need to keep in mind- you will never get the rumble of a V8. Ever. Period. However, you can get a nice growl, just search around for sound clips of people's car and see what they're running.
Q: Which brand of cat-back should I get?
A: It's up to you! Go with what you think sounds the best. If you want your car to be VERY loud then get the SLP Loudmouth. There are many options out there though that aren't as loud as SLP LM though. There's TSP Rumbler, Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Borla, Edelbrock, Corsa, Hooker, RKSport, Jardine, B&B, Pacesetter, Raven, and I'm probably forgetting one or two, that's how many options you have! You can also get the stock cat-back off of a V8 powered F-body. Our V8 big brothers came from the factory with 2.75" piping so you also get the best of both the 3" and 2.5" tubing. You can even do a custom job with mandrel bent piping and run it out to the muffler of your choice. WARNING: Flowmaster systems have been known to rust out quickly.
Q: What size exhaust tubing should I go with?
A: That depends on if you're going to get into Forced Induction (FI) or not. If you are then 3" tubing is what I suggest. Otherwise you're fine to go with 2.5" if you plan on the car being Naturally Aspirated (N/A).
Q: I thought bigger is better?
A: Bigger isn't always better, with the 3" tubing you lose a little bit of low-mid range performance, but gain it back on the top end, hence why I suggest it for cars that will see N2O, a turbocharger, or supercharger.
Q: Ok, so now that I've decided what cat-back system I want, should I get a cutout and where do they go?
A: If you plan on the car seeing track time then it is feasible for you to get a cutout. The two popular places for cutouts are on the y-pipe before the catalytic converter or on the i-pipe after the catalytic converter. Cutouts are not street legal though in most places so check your local laws before you drive to the track with the cutout open.
Q: Should I get a manual cutout or an electronic one?
A: It's your choice, a manual cutout is very simple, the plate just screws in and out in a matter of a minute, but if you get caught running one on the streets you're screwed. With an electronic cutout (e-cutout) you can open and close it with the flick of a switch, and you can also opt to run the cutout partially open as opposed to a manual cutout. E-cutouts are much more expensive as they can run upwards of $300, whereas a manual cutout can be found for less than $50.
Q: Alright, I'm looking to replace my catalytic converter, what are my options?
A: That depends on your state's emissions testing. If you have no emissions then you can take off the current cat and replace it with a straight pipe, but there will be a lot more rasp. If you replace the cat with another catalytic converter then I suggest going with a high flow cat. Now, the stock catalytic converters of today have drastically improved over the ones in the 70's, 80's and very early 90's. In fact, a high flow cat will often yield very little gain over the stock one. The aftermarket cat will give your exhaust a better sound though.
Q: So now that I have catalytic converter and cat-back taken care of, whats next?
A: Headers. This is going to be what REALLY makes a huge difference in your exhaust tone. Let me go a little in depth though for your specific engine
3.4l- As of this writing there are 2 companies that make headers for the 3.4l, Pacesetter and RKSport. Both are going to give the same performance gains, it's a matter of which brand you want.
3.8l- There are currently 3 options for shorty headers. Pacesetters, RKSport, and Clear Image Automotive. Again, performance gains will be the same between Pacesetter and RKSport, but some people have reported more of a gain from Clear Image Automotive's headers (5 HP at most). However, the y-pipe that connects the headers to the catalytic converter is not included with the price and is an additional $150. Now, with that being said, there is a company called Force Fed Fabrications (FFF) that is making long-tube headers for the 3.8l. With these you will see a MUCH better performance gain, but there are a few potential setbacks. You have to get the EGR tuned out, there's the need to run 93 octane, and you'll need to either run true dual exhaust or have a custom y-pipe fabbed by an exhaust shop.
Q: I'm about to buy headers, is the ceramic coating only for looks?
A: No, the ceramic coating will provide for a longer life for your headers and will keep your engine bay at a cooler temperature. Some people use header wrap to keep the engine bay cooler since it is a cheaper route. While it is cheaper, and does do it's job, the wrap shortens the life of your headers and will cause them to rust faster.
Q: What about the header gaskets and bolts that are provided with my headers, are they good enough?
A: Sometimes, it depends on how clean you get your heads before you install the headers. I suggest spending the extra $30 to email Lance at Abbott Racing Heads for their aluminum gaskets. Also, get some stage 8 locking header bolts to ensure against leaks. I also suggest checking the bolts once a week after installing headers to make sure everything is in place. After a month though you can get away with checking the bolts once a month. Yes it's one more thing you have to do, but this is your car, better safe than sorry.
Q: I'm looking to improve my car's intake, what should I do?
A: Well that depends on what engine your car is and what year. I'll break down your options based on that.
1993-95 3.4l- You guys and gals have a cone and filter. Your best route is to get a Cold Air Intake, these are made by Moroso or K&N. The K&N kit is called Fuel Injection Performance Kit (FIPK). The good thing is any LT1 Air Induction kit will fit on a 3.4l if you use the factory elbow.
1995-97 3.8l- Also have the cone & filter intake set up. K&N makes their FIPK for these, SLP offers their own cold air induction kit, and you can still grab the Moroso kit. It's again a matter of what brand do you want.
1998 3.8l- This is when GM put a lid over the air filter but was still using a cable driven angled throttle body. You can get a air lid from Whisper Motorsports and then a Cold Air Intake or Ram Air kit which is offered by Fast Toys Performance, SLP, and Whisper Motorsports. These cold air kits and ram air kits scoop the air up from the air dam and push the air into the engine to provide for more horsepower and a better fuel economy.
1999-02 3.8l- Like the 1998 Fbody, you have a lid over your filter. You have the same options as the 1998 Fbody, but have to make sure that the lid is intended for 1999-2002 Fbodys. Or, you have the option of a K&N FIPK. Now, if you get the FIPK, you do not put a lid over the filter.
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