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  • new dyno numbers from CIA headers w/ problems

    ok i went to Fastech today and got my car dynoed. only changes were the CIA headers and 3" s-pipe. previous before dyno showed 173rwhp. after dyno showed 179rwhp and a jagged as sh!t line and lower torque. so i can at least show 6rwhp gain. well on the way home i hooked it up to the puter cause i wanted to see why the line was so sh!tty and cause i thought i should have had alot more power. well i found out why. I HAVE 14 FUKCING DEGREES OF KNOCK!!! i had forgotten i had to change the plugs and wires with the cheapest autozone stuff cause i had burned through a MSD wire and fouled the NGK when i routed the wires bad. i'm not sure what else i can do or check besides that so anyone have any ideas? 14 degrees of knock should be like 20 lost hp to so that supports my thoery some more that the headers should have put me closer to 195-200rwhp. well off to order some more MSD wires and maybe i'll try some iridium plugs. anyone have any experience with iridium plugs or should i just stick with ol' copper NGK's?
    i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

  • #2
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Deuce Bigs:
    I HAVE 14 FUKCING DEGREES OF KNOCK!!! <hr></blockquote>

    I assume you are refering to timing retard due to the Knock sensor. That horrible! Let us know what happens after you change the plugs and wires.
    Robert - owner www.FirebirdV6.com "Mid-life crisis? I'm way beyond that!"

    1996 Black Firebird GTxxxRam Air V6 w/ M5xxxwww.FirebirdGT.com

    Raven

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    • #3
      yeah timing retard.
      i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

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      • #4
        yeah i looked at the log. i had 2 degrees of spark advance and 14.1 degrees of knock retard. this sucks. where's my power?!?!
        i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

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        • #5
          what is needed to monitor your car with the computer. Please let me know as i would like to do the same.

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          • #6
            Dang, that sucks! [img]graemlins/thumbsdown.gif[/img] I completely forgot the dyno testing today too!

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            • #7
              I can't wait to find out the dyno results on the headers!!
              Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
              nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
              2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
              2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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              • #8
                and the sh!t continues. went to put in the aluminum driveshaft and come to find out it's either bent or horribly unbalanced cause at about 35mph the vibration becomes pretty unbearable. best damn $150 dollars i've spent. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
                i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

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                • #9
                  Dude, I have never seen that much even running 13.5psi of boost on a 90+degree day.... What is you fuel like? Is your O2's really low? Do you hear any vibration, like from the headers hitting something? It could very well be false knock. What were the engine temps? You haven't jacked with the maf or anything have you? If the MAF is lean you might not be getting enough fuel.

                  DEE
                  1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6

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                  • #10
                    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Deuce Bigs:
                    it's either bent or horribly unbalanced cause at about 35mph the vibration becomes pretty unbearable. best damn $150 dollars i've spent. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: <hr></blockquote>

                    Damn dude really? Hmm, mine used to vibrate when I decelerate but its gone now.

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                    • #11
                      well it seems i have found out why there was a vibration. when i went to put the driveshaft in i'm assuming one of the caps slid down so there was about 2mm of play for the driveshaft to bounce around. one down one to go. my car has 71000 miles on it so maybe it's just time to do a complete tune up. i'm going to get another set of MSD wires since i burned one. another set of ngk tr55's. change the fuel filter. and pcv valve. i also wonder if maybe since i just cleaned my K&N if the oils got into the MAF? anyone know what kinda symptoms that would show?
                      i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

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                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Deuce Bigs:
                        i also wonder if maybe since i just cleaned my K&N if the oils got into the MAF? anyone know what kinda symptoms that would show?<hr></blockquote>

                        I am using engineering intuition, but if you got oil coating on the maf, you will likely not read as much air, the oil would reduce the mafs ability to cool off as air passes over it. Hence, you may read leaner than usual.

                        DEE
                        1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6

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                        • #13
                          how would i go about cleaning that?
                          i was swimming in the carribean. animals were hiding behind the rocks except for the little fish, but they told me the squid\'s trying to talk to me. oink, oink. where is my mind?

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                          • #14
                            Pick up some Electrowash (or other electronics component cleaner) and spray on the MAF wires liberaly. Take the MAF out first.... the cleaner could be explosive! ;)
                            Jason McCallister, Founder & Webmaster<br /><a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">West Tennessee F-Body Association, Inc.</a><br /><br />2000 Camaro - <a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org/site/view_member.php?ID=68\" target=\"_blank\">Details</a>

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                            • #15
                              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Deuce Bigs:
                              how would i go about cleaning that?<hr></blockquote>


                              I would use an electrical parts cleaner. Don't spray with the can too close, just look at the small wires in the MAF and you will see what I mean.

                              Be sure to remove the TB when you do it.

                              DEE
                              1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6

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