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OK, my new tach keeps turning off (momentarily jumping down to 0, and then back up again), and I can make it happen when using the lights, wipers, brakes, etc -- anything that puts a power draw on the car -- ... seems to be not getting enough current / amps / whatever from the electrical system.
Do I need a capacitor in-line with the + or - wire of the tach?
Do I need ... ???
Thanks!
-Rob
I answered my own question by searching on the internet:
Wiring was accomplished by extending the positive and negative leads on the gauge using insulated crimp but splices and connecting the supply and ground to the speedometer (which acts as a common bus for all of the gauges) using insulated ring connectors. The leads on the light kit where wired the same way, but the positive is connected to a different stud on the speedometer (that is fed off the line that formally fed power to the lights for the original gauges). The sender line was connected to pin R on the alternator.
When I fired up the truck for the first time with the new gauges, the tachometer did not operate. After chasing the wiring a bit, I finally called Datcon's technical support and discovered that I needed to install a capacitor in line between the tachometer and the alternator (conveniently not mentioned on my gauge or alternator literature). A buddy of mine who works with electronic items on a regular basis donated a 250 volt, 1mfd nonpolar capacitor with an upper operating temp of at least 75 C. It had monofilament leads, so I cut the 14 gauge multistrand wire running between the tachometer and alternator and soldered the ends onto the ends of the leads on the capacitor and then tied the wire leads into a square knot along side the cap case in order to provide some strain relief. I then wrapped the whole thing thoroughly with electrical tape and have been enjoying the tachometer since.
Well, it didn't work. I wired the capacitor (250V, 1microF) every which way on the + and GND wires to my tach, and moved the + wire to several different leads, and directly to the + of the battery. No avail -- tach still cuts on / off when lights are on, or sometimes just all the time. Could it be a bad alt / voltage regulator? Or can someone tell me how to install (a different) capacitor. Really would like to fix this. I might just install a battery and a switch for the tach, btu that seems like overkill.
-Rob
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