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  • Damn car.... still has problems.

    On my 97 bird... Those of you who visit the chat room may have heard me complaining about this before (my nick in there is kefkafloyd).

    Okay... my car's been doing this dumb crap for a while now. I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow because I lack a scan tool to watch the engine.

    First, when I start the car, the tach goes up to a bit less than 1.9K or so... but instead of going down quickly, it kind of sticks there (something in the engine makes a ticking noise as it goes down here) then goes down to 1.5k or so. Kinda jerky. I assume this is normal? this is unrelated, but I think my battery is on the way out too (dashboard's voltmeter reads the battery at just over the orange hashmarks when engine is off but key on, and I noticed when I started it the other day that when the engine turns over the voltmeter goes down then jumps up to 13 volts). Anyway...

    Let's say you start driving. You'll be driving around for a short while... get up to 30 MPH or so and the tach is normally around 1.9K to 2K here. It seems at 30 MPH it does the following like clockwork: if you press the accelerator down slightly the engine feels like it's not getting enough fuel or something. The tach will fall from whatever it may be at to about... 1.6K or something, and pressing down on the accelerator further makes the engine accelerate very slowly until you get to a certain point when the power returns and the car is starting to go fast (this is generally above 2.5K RPM). You could accelerate very slowly into 30 MPH and just as soon as you pass 30 MPH it'll do this.

    Now, let's say you don't press the accelerator in far enough... the tach will go up to say, 2.4K RPM, but then it'll fall right back down to 1.6K or so and climb slowly. This has been driving me nuts because I can't hold a constant speed, I have to accelerate fast, then coast, then go fast again, etc. At some point, this problem goes away, and car behaves normally.

    Another funny thing is let's say you do a WOT run and let go of the accelerator, not easing off of it. Sometimes the car does what I like to call an "almost stall..." the tach will drop all the way down to 1000 RPM-ish, then the tach will quickly jump back up to the "rolling RPM." I think this is somehow an engine thing because I notice that the oil pressure dips down to the idle reading when this happens, but goes back up (the "working" pressure is around 60-ish, the idle pressure is around 25-30). Somehow I think these two issues are connected, even though the first issue can stop happening and the second one will happen on random WOT runs (I've been doing a few WOT runs everyday to see how many times this happens... sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't).

    Other tach funnies... sometimes when braking the tach will wobble around 1K.

    It had a tune-up done in January (plugs, wires, coils, fuel, air, etc) oil changed recently (that time), transmission fluid changed and filter too, TPS and IAC sensors are also reasonably new. O2s were also replaced during tuneup. I had a new catalytic converter and driver's side exhaust manifold replaced under warranty. I also seafoamed it about a week ago. I have no SES light.

    I'll see what the mechanic says tomorrow, but at this point I'm pinning it on EGR problems (that I can't diagnose without a scan tool) or exhaust leak (which I can't diagnose without a lift, and I don't have access). Anyone have any ideas?

    EDIT: after doing some searching... I found this video, and I'll be damned, but it looks exactly like what my car does, except at 30 MPH or so...

    http://members.cox.net/joshualabelle/RPM%20drop.MOV

    [ April 20, 2004, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: Dan Vincent ]
    <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

  • #2
    check your vacuum lines other than that
    I dunno

    good luck
    96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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    • #3
      Mechanic said he couldn't duplicate the problem I was having, which I figured would happen. I pick up the car in the afternoon, and when I leave, it does it. asdfasdfassf!!!!

      He didn't charge me for anything, but he said I ought to bring it to the dealer and have the computer reprogrammed and the TCC checked out.

      Looks like I'll be living with it for a while.
      <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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      • #4
        i have a bird 97 to and i feel the same problem on my car

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        • #5
          Use a Tech 1 tool. Camshaft or Crankshaft position sensor!!! (just a wild guess but sounds very familiar)
          <a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six</a> <br /><b><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/c_o_jones\" target=\"_blank\">Cardomain</a></b><br />--This doesn\'t change the fact that I am ~The Guru~ who still kicks puppies...

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          • #6
            I know you guys get custom performance chips, but my car is a 97 and the only chip for that is about $300 or so. How much would it cost for the dealer to reprogram my car if they, say, don't find a TSB with a problem similar to mine?
            <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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            • #7
              your driving in overdrive

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              • #8
                A cheapo think to try is resetting your pcm. Pull the pcm batt and pcm ign fuses with the key on accessory. LEave it for 5 mins then plug them back in and fire her up.

                Have you seen a check engine light?
                1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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                • #9
                  A cheapo think to try is resetting your pcm. Pull the pcm batt and pcm ign fuses with the key on accessory. LEave it for 5 mins then plug them back in and fire her up.
                  Doesn't work. Tried it already. :(

                  your driving in overdrive
                  Does it in third too.

                  Have you seen a check engine light?
                  No. I don't particularly like the Pontiac dealer in this town, and it's a pain for me to get around here whithout my car. I'll probably wait a few weeks until I get back to my hometown for the summer and see the Pontiac dealership there.

                  The mechanic was a real nice guy - he just couldn't get the car to do it for him. Sometimes it goes away, other times it's fine. I've heard of others with 97s who had a TSB related to their PCM, but not much else than that.
                  <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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                  • #10
                    Watching a tech tool hooked up to the car while the transmission guy drove around revealed much. It is indeed the TCC.

                    Guess what? I found the TSB.

                    http://web.archive.org/web/200111080...77-71-70A.html

                    This is exactly what my car is doing. Time to wave this in front of the dealer and say "Do it."

                    If that doesn't fix it, time for a shift kit and fixing the valvebody.
                    <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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