So how to make the car run cooler?(mainly at the track)

[MustangEater8251]

What options do I have...

I think I heard 160* stat confused comp, woudl a 180* work? any other ideas besides that?

[hockeyman]

I never had a 160* stat in my car, so I have no idea if it would be better to use. If you wanna run cooler fuel, install a coolcan. You can find'em at www.jegs.com

-Marc

[Knight5]

just install a manual fan switch

[3.4 slow to go]

aftermarket fan switch, water wetter,.....yeah from what I've heard/read, if your going to run a 160* stat, it's best to make sure ecm is programmed for this. Lets the fan get kicked in sooner & run a little more advanced timing.

[navyblue2000]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by firebird1:
what the hell is this stuff about ecm programming for a 160 stat?

when did this bullsh!t start floating around the board?

you dont need programming for a damn thermostat. go to radio shack and make a switch, i might be able to find the link i used,
my car is never above 180, and i have high/low fans whenever i want.<hr></blockquote>


don't be ignorant. this has been posted several times. Dominic had trouble with his '02, and a few guys had trouble with their '01's with a 160* thermostat.

ME8251, i run a 180* stat with a low and high speed fan switch. the SLP switch doesn't trigger an SES light, but costs 50 bucks. I have maybe 4 bucks in my switch, and it sets an SES light when i use it *sometimes*, but i saved 46 bucks.

[MustangEater8251]

Fo some reason I thought I heard something about newere 3.8Ls with a 160* stat puts the computer into limp mode. I never really thought I woudl need a fan swtich, since I didn't on my old car.

Either way I did notice an imporvement with watter wetter, and more of watter to coolant mix. Don't really have freezing problems in FL. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ravenp]

To be honest if you're most thinking of keeping it cool at the track, a lower thermo won't help much...

I have a 180 in mine and if I leave the engine running in the staging lanes in summer evening weather for longer than 5 mins, i'm up over the half line on my temp guage.

Thermos help more for when you're driving and the air is being forced out of your engine bay.... I would hook up a manual fan switch for less than $10 total parts and just over an hour labour.

This way when you're staged, and thus not moving, you can flush out the hot air and keep things cooler under the hood.

The other thing that helps me, if it's practical where you race is to take the car out on the highway for 5 mins and get up to 80km's... always run faster after a quick snort on the highway... [img]smile.gif[/img]

[slow]

MustangEater8251 hit me up on aim Ryan212 for a fan switch, for way less.

no ses lights, and plug and play, just like the slp unit.

Ryan. &lt;-- i used to live in northgate with the red Ws6, if you dont recognize the SN.

[Zooomer]

Running a drilled Tstat or no stat will help it run cooler at the track. For the cars with the PCMs that don't like that we have a device that will keep the puter ok when running cold stats.
Another option is to install an electric WP and then run the WP and fans with the car off. This will bring your engine close to ambient in less than 5 minutes!

[MustangEater8251]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Zooomer:
Running a drilled Tstat or no stat will help it run cooler at the track. For the cars with the PCMs that don't like that we have a device that will keep the puter ok when running cold stats.
Another option is to install an electric WP and then run the WP and fans with the car off. This will bring your engine close to ambient in less than 5 minutes!<hr></blockquote>

what about welding a brokent drill bit on the tip of my waterpump, and cranking it about 800-1000 RPMs with a cordless drill.(Belt off of course...)

[MustangEater8251]

By the way the smaller thermostat will help me at the track...

the car heats up, but hte coolant will start flowing sooner, and there are back roads about a good 1/8th or longer towards the back of the track, I usually run back and forth a few times on to get air through the radiator.

[slow]

if you are serious about the water pump, you can remove the belt, and install a small electric motor and put a little 0-ring type belt to connect the 2, for electric operation of the waterpump, for tempary use only.

Ryan

[Zooomer]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251:


what about welding a brokent drill bit on the tip of my waterpump, and cranking it about 800-1000 RPMs with a cordless drill.(Belt off of course...)<hr></blockquote>

What are you talking about?

[3.4 slow to go]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Zooomer:


What are you talking about?<hr></blockquote>

I think he wnats to do w/the water pump something like an oil pump primer tool. Have the nub of a drill sticking out, & inbetween passes hook up a cordless drill & work the water pump that way.

I could be wrong though.