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  • 160 thermo?

    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Despite the gains Stefan saw in this review, neither the 3.4 nor the 3.8 engines were designed to run at 160°. This is a hotly-debated modification. Coming soon we will feature the counterpoint: why you should NOT install a 160° thermostat in your V6 F-Body, presented to you by Robert Cornell and Mike Wenski.
    <hr></blockquote>

    i recently read this in "modifications reviews." so if we have a 160 thermo, does that mean we need to get rid of it? someone explain this to me please...
    2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

  • #2
    First off not to sound mean or anything but do a search since this topic has been discussed many many times.
    Second the effects of a 160 degree t-stat a debatable. Some say it works other say it harms it. Its a matter of opinion. I personally have the 160 degree t-stat and have never experienced any problems with it.
    Third it does not cause you system to be in a continous open loop mode this was proven multiple times by different people some of which are on this board.
    Fourth I say leave it in unless you are experiencing problems.
    Lastly and the most important fact of all is that no matter what t-stat you run your coolant/engine temp is still going to reach a specific range/point. The T-stat ONLY ALLOWS THE COOLANT TO BEGIN TO FLOW AT A LOWER TEMP. Since it is a 160 degree the t-stat opens and allows the coolant to flow earlier and more at the lower temp thus allowing for bettering cooling. It does not regulate your fan temp or engine temp since no matter what anybody says your t-stat does not regulate that. For better cooling get the lower t-stat in combination with a better radiator and fan and even a high flow water pump. In the end it won't hurt your car and in most cases can allow you to gain a little extra power. Feel free to email me or post again if you have any questions.
    1994 Camaro<br />3.4L V6 Automatic<br />K&N FIPK&Gold Oil Filter,Ravin Performance Exhaustw/Dynomax MandrelBent3\"I-Pipe&S Pipe&Catco 3\" HiFlow Cat.,ASP Crank and High AMP Alternator,U.D. Pulley Set, Bosch Spark Plugs and Oxygen Sensors, Taylor Wires, B&M E.ShiftPlus, 160 thermostat,Zexel Torsen L.S.D., CSI Remote Mount Electric Water Pump & Temp. Controller & Flex Hoses, ALM. Drivshaft, Diamond SubFram Conn.<br />COMING SOON: 350 or 502 RAMJET ENGINE & Big Block Hood<br />NJ V6 F-Body Club<br /><a href=\"http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/\" target=\"_blank\">http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/</a><br />Street Lethal F-Body Association <br /><a href=\"http://www.slfba.com./index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.slfba.com./index.html</a>

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    • #3
      I am running a 160*stat and watter wetter, significantly lowred my coolant temp. Great for my car, but there is a such thing as overcooling, and it being harmful to your motor, but I guess this is mainly in norhtern climats during the winter.

      But I live in florida, you do everything you can to keep motor from over heating.

      If your car is like mine, my temp is pretty much steady at the hash mark above the lowest temp setting 160*. If the needle never moves you are problably overheating, But if its different you shoudl be fine.

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      • #4
        this has been talked about a lot in the past. Do a search and you will find all the info you need
        White 98 Camaro with t-tops leather and Y87. For more info on mods just ask.<br />1/4=14.9<br />2002 Xterra V6 A4

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