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  • Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

    I only plan on getting my psi up to 12 pounds, possibly 15 but unlikely. would an air to air intercooler be good enough to cool down the incomming air at this high of boost or would i need an air to water intercooler. I know someone thats got an air to air for sale for cheap, but I want to do this right. heres some pics of the air to air i might buy unless i find out i should go with an air to water, what do you think of it?

    http://i4.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/f5/13/2059_1.JPG
    http://i21.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/f5/13/256b_1.JPG

    1999 Firebird Y87/W68

  • #2
    Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

    A properly sized air-to-air IC will be sufficient. Air-to-water are usually used on racecars that producing TONS of boost.
    sigpic
    1997 Camaro RS A4
    2006 Chevy Colorado
    2003 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-R

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    • #3
      Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

      based on those pictures could you tell if that one would be big enough? i plan on setting it sideways parallel to the ground and fabbing up a plastic air dam that would wrap around it to push air up into it

      1999 Firebird Y87/W68

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      • #4
        Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

        depends on if you want to use it daily or just for the track

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        • #5
          Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

          Also not to bash, but rethink getting 12-15 psi out of your powerdyne, especially after an intercooler.
          \'98 Camaro V6<br />Appearance... pleasing<br />Performance... just a little extra air.

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          • #6
            Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

            Originally posted by NCState98 View Post
            Also not to bash, but rethink getting 12-15 psi out of your powerdyne, especially after an intercooler.
            I agree, even at 10 psi the powerdyne was breaking internal belts from either over heating or jumping off the input and output shafts from going over too much rpms on the shafts and bearings. Adding a intercooler will even put more stress on the unit.
            08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
            96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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            • #7
              Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

              i thought there were guys on here that were running double digit psi off their powerdynes?

              with those problems are they on a factory powerdyne or did it have any of the upgrades...like a kevlar belt, different input shaft that prevents the belt from popping off of it, vents in the chamber to vent out hot air, and high speed bearings?

              ive also got a billet impellar that pulls in air much more efficiently than the factory impellar...i went from 7psi to 9psi simply by changing out the impellar, no change in the pulley

              and yeah its a DD, not a track car. although i will have it at the track from time to time...maybe once or twice a year

              and back to the main issue haha. think air to air will do the trick?
              Last edited by 99BlackW68; 07-01-2008, 07:42 PM.

              1999 Firebird Y87/W68

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              • #8
                Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

                well a/a is more practical, air to water is much cooler. Probably won't make much difference in any case. I like a/w because you can dump a bag of ice in there and have it working twice as good! You don't need it, but it gets my vote anyway.

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                • #9
                  Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

                  Originally posted by 99BlackW68 View Post
                  i thought there were guys on here that were running double digit psi off their powerdynes?

                  with those problems are they on a factory powerdyne or did it have any of the upgrades...like a kevlar belt, different input shaft that prevents the belt from popping off of it, vents in the chamber to vent out hot air, and high speed bearings?

                  ive also got a billet impellar that pulls in air much more efficiently than the factory impellar...i went from 7psi to 9psi simply by changing out the impellar, no change in the pulley

                  and yeah its a DD, not a track car. although i will have it at the track from time to time...maybe once or twice a year

                  and back to the main issue haha. think air to air will do the trick?
                  everyone on here who has or does run high boost numbers on a powerdyne is fighting a loosing battle when it comes to air intake temps. the blower just gets too hot and the intake air being that high is not good for the car. you can try putting an intercooler on it.. and it will help, but the temps will still be high and you will lose a ton of boost because of it. they just arent made to handle a lot of boost very well. my blower, as well as NCstate98's blowers all had upgraded internals.

                  what i think you should do... if you must go the powerdyne route.. get a small intercooler like the one you posted, not much bigger or youll lose way too much boost. get a smaller pulley to up the boost to make up for what the IC will bring it down.. check graymans site for the size of the pulleys. and DEFINATELY get an upgrade kit for the blower. you can do it yourself its not too difficult, just be careful. i ran a powerdyne on my last car as my DD, only went to the track maybe twice a year and my car ran good for everything, but only up to about 8-9 psi. good luck!
                  Dave:
                  00 Supercharged Camaro - RIP
                  97 Turbo Camaro - Sold

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                  • #10
                    Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

                    Originally posted by 99BlackW68 View Post
                    i thought there were guys on here that were running double digit psi off their powerdynes?

                    with those problems are they on a factory powerdyne or did it have any of the upgrades...like a kevlar belt, different input shaft that prevents the belt from popping off of it, vents in the chamber to vent out hot air, and high speed bearings?

                    ive also got a billet impellar that pulls in air much more efficiently than the factory impellar...i went from 7psi to 9psi simply by changing out the impellar, no change in the pulley

                    and yeah its a DD, not a track car. although i will have it at the track from time to time...maybe once or twice a year

                    and back to the main issue haha. think air to air will do the trick?

                    Guys are 928motorsports are running 20psi on their PD, but you're gonna have to upgrade to this http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/superpowerdyne.php

                    Brother Performance in my area are running their Fox Body Stang with this particular rebuilt in a NASA racing track where their boost can reach at an upward of 20psi. And this race last for 3-4 hours.

                    From what I've seen they use air to water intercooler. Similar to the Vortech style aftercooler. This would be the best route for PD because it doesn't restrict the airflow as much as air to air. With air to air intercooler air backd up within the discharge pipe as it tries to flow through the tiny bars of the intercooler and because of it heat can build up and stress on the PD's internal.

                    Air to water intercooler can be use daily. There's no reason why. My neighbor's Honda S2000 is using it with his vortech and he puts 70 miles a day on that car on a very heavy traffic. He uses redline water wetter to keep it cool. Imagine this, during track time you can use ice to keep the air even cooler. The only disadvantage to air to water is that it's much more complicated than air to air and much heavier, but other than it's good.

                    What Steve or SSM is talking about is that the impeller shaft is a drawback because the internal belt tends to travel at very high speed and then make contact with a aliminum washer that is peene. But that can be remedy by taking your shaft to a machine shop and having them put 2 1/8" grooves and having them fab. steele washer. The grooves create a vacuum that will hold the belt in place. You could also get this from 928: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Power...spagenameZWD1V

                    Hope this helps. I hope to do the same thing myself, but I'm broke because I'm paying for my wife's medicines (all 23 of them). Sucks for me.
                    Last edited by Mighty Thor; 07-02-2008, 04:02 AM.

                    1998 Firebird . 1989 Firebird XS . 1986 Fiero GT

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                    • #11
                      Re: Intercooling: air to air? or air to water?

                      as for the upgraded powerdyne...ive got that impellar shaft with the grooves in it from 928, its got the kevlar belt, high speed bearings that can handle more heat and speed than the original ones, and the upgraded billet impellar that pulls in air much more efficiently...so its a pretty beefy powerdyne. also, once i up the boost and intercool im buying a blowoff valve from 928motorsports so backpressure wont take its toll on the s/c when i let off the throttle.

                      1999 Firebird Y87/W68

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