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Phill<br /><br />95 camaro... need money for turbo project... <br />94 S10 Blazer - winter beater - infinity system to be installed soon<br /><br />\"The man who says it cant be done should not interrupt the man doing it...\"
Yes, die grinders are made for that. If it's pneumatic, just use a regulator. Most electric die grinders are variable speed, just use as much RPM as your comfortable with. If you leave it turned all the way up, it can get away from you FAST! All of your porting kits and supply's are for 1/4 shank mandrels that fit die grinders. I used to have some links to porting supply's on my desk top, when I get on it I'll see if I can find them to post.
Cool - that would help since I'm gonna be doing a little bit of porting when I get my taxes back. I'm getting some stock heads, UIM, and LIM.
Ya, my compressor (60 gal 6 horse) runs at 125 psi, but my grinder is one that the handle controls the speed.
So back on topic. What do you guys suggest the final touch should be as far as smoothness? I've read between 60-80 grit on the intake, what should be used to finish the exhaust? 500? higher?
One more question - which gaskets are you guys using, stock or aftermarket. Or are they all the same size.
Last edited by greasemonkey; 02-02-2008, 01:04 AM.
not all gaskets are the same size. MLS head gaskets can come in different thicknesses, to raise or lower your compression ratio. If you're going N/A, you'll want to raise it, and the smallest gasket supposably will raise it by around .2.
Just an update, these heads are going to be for either a Firebird... or I'm going to keep the Camaro and do an engine build (on stand) to drop in in the future. I just developed a horrible knock, runs like a dog too, think a cyl is out. I will diagnose Monday probably. But it got me to thinking this engine has alot of miles, either time to move on to a bird (mmm.....) or overhaul a shortblock and drop these heads+cam on it for a swap.
What kind of work should be done to the combustion chamber? Just polish it up to resist detonation and carbon build up? How do you do said work without messing up the valve seats and stuff? I'd be interested in porting a set of stock heads just for the learning experience.
94 Camaro convertible -- mostly stock 97 Firebird -- Project Car - kyb agx shocks, eibach springs, 3.42 torsen diff, aluminum driveshaft, slp cai, pacesetter headers, magnaflow cat-back. hptuners. not done yet. 98 Firebird -- Parts Car
^ This is a good DIY guide to use, its what I used when I did mine.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Thanks for the link, good stuff. Is there much to be gained from porting 3800 heads yourself? Is a "decent" p&p job beyond the scope of an amatuer, or is this something I could really do myself?
94 Camaro convertible -- mostly stock 97 Firebird -- Project Car - kyb agx shocks, eibach springs, 3.42 torsen diff, aluminum driveshaft, slp cai, pacesetter headers, magnaflow cat-back. hptuners. not done yet. 98 Firebird -- Parts Car
What kind of work should be done to the combustion chamber? Just polish it up to resist detonation and carbon build up? How do you do said work without messing up the valve seats and stuff? I'd be interested in porting a set of stock heads just for the learning experience.
you will need a to have a valve job after you do the P&P
There is casting flaws you can smooth down, you'll see once you start to port them. Just take your time and don't rush the job, and when you do the bowls make sure you put in the valves so you don't mess the seats up, it is nice to have a set of gaskets to outline the area like in the writeup. Also like meatshells said a 3 angle valve job would be good with a good bead blasting and maybe .010 mill of the heads to make sure their flat and you should be good to go. Good luck
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Buy a die grinder.. and be very careful when you have to go in through the valve seat area. I hang the cord over my shoulder and bring the die grinder down to my hands.. use both hands to control it and have a hand sturdy on the head (basically use your dominant hand, with the other as an anchor/guide).
Also before you do the heads, have them bead blasted and then magnafluxed.. BEFORE you waste your time. I didn't even have mine magnafluxed.. for all I know there could be a crack somewhere that I don't know about.
I did most of my work with a dremel at low speeds and if was a casting flaw I think on the exhuast side it was I used the air die grinder to cut it down quicker. I just about 2 of the harbor frieght 150pc diamond grinding sets for 9.99 for the dremel and the air grinder 7 pc set was like 14.99 bought 2 of them also. I bought a gasket removal kit for like $10 for the dremel which cleaned up the intake and exhaust side very well. Low speeds worked very well, I got some pics on my Cardomain Site in my profile, about half way down 1st page. I still haven't installed mine since the ones on the car are holding up fine.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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