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its confusing to me... that the computer can control anything like that. like whats that input/output whatever it is in the computer normally do?
i don't think you have enough power for slicks man. probably just cost you money in axle/ trans etc.
The output on the ecu is for a airdiverter valve that isnt used. So the ecu is programed to just tell the sileniod to open this much or close that much determined on what the map sensor is reading in KPA(boost)
Well i was gonna pick those slicks up mainly to save my street tires, i dont plan on launching to hard with the turbo, but i had problems launching with the street tires when the car was runnign high 16's.. And the slicks are from a friend. If I break a axle then Ill just have to get better ones. Better it breaks at the track then on the road.
Im sure it is, just have to look into bin files and see if there is one. Theres is also a boost controler that is like the one im getting for any car, basically a universal one buts its more $$. It controls the boost read by the gate in the same way through a sileniod.
hptuners doesn't give us any ability to read boost unless using 2bar. not even with a booost controller like that.. maf works fine though. and an 8lb spring is ok with me.
hptuners doesn't give us any ability to read boost unless using 2bar. not even with a booost controller like that.. maf works fine though. and an 8lb spring is ok with me.
Yea I dont know anything about HP tuners, I just mod the bin file on tunerpro RT and love it. I have a 8psi spring as well but im already addicted to boost and ran 10psi on the car once through a old style boost controler and love the little extra power. Im using the same bin file off turboed sunfires, GP and such so its really easy to manuver. syclone bins.
comp is 8.5:1 the factory says. And total timing under boost is from 16 on low boost to 12 on high boost(10psi) Ive got colder plugs and 93 in the gas tank to help prevent knock.
Yup saw a little knock then turned it down till I can get a good chance to tune the timing a little more. I use to hate the fact that my motor had lower compression, but now im greatful of it!!
i think the 3.8 is 10.5 or or 9.5 to 1. i'm lost because i see 3.8 tunes running large amounts of timing underboost. but your max is 12 with that compression... it seems like i really do need to pull a little. i think im running 9 under full boost. and still get kr. but after i get rid of this ****ty tank of gas i think im gonnna put it in a few gallons of race fuel to see if its false or not.
Well I bumped up timing to 1-4* in all boost conditions today and the car definitly has faster with no spark knock(baby steps at adding timing here..LOL). Im really conservitive in my tune as its my first turbo tuning attempt. I drove it for 20 min today and wow did it run great, smooth, responsive, and fast with the 5.5 psi i was pushing. My controler should be here on friday so If i get time ill get to crank up the boost a little and tune for high boost pulls. My max timing as of now is about 16* at the low end of boost and 13* at wot @5.5psi. I still can bump up timing 2-4* more, forsure.
What are your plugs gapped to?? That can cause knock forsure. 0.030 is a good gap and 1 or 2 step colder plugs(then factory ones), 93 octane, and a good intercooler to maintain charge air temps will help alot. What are you monitoring the car with?? Datalogging on the laptop?? Or what? How much timing are you running at boost levels??? WOT at 8-9psi(whatever your max is)
.040 and 1 step colder. thats what i think the rest of the 3.8 guys do. data logging with hp tuners scanner on laptop. been running 91. might try to find some 93 if it indeed ends up being real knock. 12 at max boost. 8lbs. i am intercooled and my intake temps have been plenty low exspecially with the weather recently.
If you want, try gapping them a little tighter, I had timing issues with the gap at .045 then when i tightened it up to .025-.028 the knock went away. Cant hurt to just re-check the gap you put the plugs at, to rule out that.
Make sure nothing is loose near the knock sensor, that will give a false reading also, but you def. got a great idea throwing some race gas in there to see if the knock dissapears. Thats a great way to prove if its real spark knock.
Went ahead and moved my starter wire from the back, to the front again since it had no effect on my drain on the battery. Also made me nervous driving...
Building the Tom Henry RS Part 4: Suspension Mods, Tires, Wheels, Headers and other Cool Stuff. By: Hib Halverson
At the end of Part Three, we changed the valvetrain of the 3.8-liter V6 in the Tom Henry RS. We installed new, Yella Terra "Ultralite" 1.8:1, aluminum roller rocker arms, Katech valve springs and Katech titanium retainers on our 3800 Series II V6. Ultralites are nearly 25% lighter than the stock 1.6 rockers and 8% lighter than the SLP aluminum...
02-07-2020, 10:30 PM
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