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When i brake at high speeds the wheel shakes really bad. Does this just mean i need new brakes or what?
Also when i push the gas down a little, the RPM's dont go up at all, and i push it more and it still doesnt go up. Then i push it harder and it jumps from 1500 to around 3500-4000. Why does it do this, and what i can i do to make it more smooth throughout the RPMS.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by JAM:
As for the RMP thing, is it just the tach not working or does the car not respond then rocket fast?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RedAudiomobile: When i brake at high speeds the wheel shakes really bad. Does this just mean i need new brakes or what?<hr></blockquote>
Rotors
1999 Chevrolet Camaro Z28<br />1987 Buick Grand National
Definately rotors, i had the same problem a while back. They should be able to shave them down if they haven't before already, so it shouldn't cost all that much unless you have to get new ones.
umm, wait on the rotors. I had the same problem w/ my car. I had low power steering fluid. check the fluid level first, before u go buying rotors that u might not need.
2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!
As sugested check the fluid, sounds like warped rotors though. Hard to tell without me driving it.
For the engine just reving then taking off, sounds kinda strange. Could be any # of things. Fuel pump going out, injectors, short circuit in wiring someplace. Any more detail on that part of your problem?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RedAudiomobile: I have a 98 3.8 firebird<hr></blockquote>
Trust me it's warped rotors, I have the same problem with my brakes. Nearly all 98's have this problem, it's caused by a manufacturing defect when the rotors get to hot from hard usage and then they warp when cooling. Their condition worsens over time, the longer they go the worse they warp. Shaving the rotors will buy you a year to a year and a half, possibly two years depending on how you drive. I had mine shaved down a little over a year ago and they're shot now, so I have to replace them. Hope this helps
I can\'t drive 55<p><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/kotenberger/camaro.html\" target=\"_blank\">My Camaro</a>
Factory:Camaro 5 speed, Color Pewter, w/ t-tops and Y87 package. <br />Engine: K&N filter w/ Whisper Lid, FRA, Borla adjustable cat-back exhaust. Hurst w/ Short Stick<br />Interior:Oil temp. and Air/Fuel ratio gauges, System.<br />Exterior: Black outs front and back, 18 in. Lenso rims w/ Kumho Supra 275/35ZR18 tires, also limo tint on sides and back.<br />173.2rwhp-----200.5tq
Try checking the transmission fluid. My mom had the exact same problem on her dodge grand caravan a while back. It was just leaking fluid from somewhere. Some valves or seals or something like that had to be replaced (sorry about the vagueness, but my mom doesn't give me very good descriptions of automotive problems). It ended up costing about $300.
Just don't take it to the dealer to get it fixed...they wanted to sell me brand new ones. And the new ones plus install was gonna be $400...yes i said $400. Cause it "wasn't covered under warrenty"
I said "You keep your rotors, and have a free look at my middle finger"
1999 Chevrolet Camaro Z28<br />1987 Buick Grand National
do what i did....buy front powerslots w/tax and shipping for 275 bucks, spend 30 minutes and install them yourself, and use the other 125 bucks on other stuff bc your problems will be fixed....see my other post about them, i love them and they look cool
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited<br /><br /><br />MODS:<br />180* t-stat, K&N FIPK, mopar ECU,<br />mike leach long tube headers+3\" y-pipe, 3\" all the way out flowmaster 50 series, mopar magnum 2bbl m1 intake manifold, APS 52mm throttle body, powerslots, 2 JL 10w3\'s
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