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ya, I'll go over it in the next couple of days to break down why. The city just had some wacky weather that flooded everything and took the power out here for 25 hours, plus work has 2 crazy events coming up tomorrow and July 17th so I've been working crazy long hours the past two days
Gaaahh, I gotta get on my laptop so I can check out your tune. I'm really curious what he did that helped since I could probably use the same advice for my tune. Sounds like he smoothed it out? My fiance's brother has a supercharged gtp that he's gonna want some tuning done on so I really gotta get back with it.
so the update on this. It was never explained why this is the fix, but it is...you need to have your lower HZ in the maf table taper down to what should be almost zero...so in my tune they go down like this (following is in lb/min)
russ k's guide says to take your lowest reading and copy and paste it into your maf table, so for me, my lowest reading was 0.964 and I put that in all my lower cells, this did 2 things, it caused me to surge if you blipped the throttle in park, and it also caused the car to shut off and choke itself out when coming to a stop EVEN THOUGH the car didn't read those cells according to my vcm scanner, and EVEN THOUGH my afr was at 14.0-14.7
so my numbers are probably massive compared to most of yours, so maybe leave those lower numbers stock to anyone that has similar issues- and by lower numbers I mean those numbers that you cannot tune for because your idle hz doesn't go lower than whatever point they are at for your car.
Now I need to figure out why
a) I am at 101% injector duty cycle on an NA car
b) Why my tps is only reading 88% at WOT
c) how to calibrate my afr readings in hp tuners to perfectly match my gauge- they seem to be a few points off of each other, but not in a linear manner...idle is different from WOT...I'll be making new posts for these issues though.
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