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wouldnt that mean it would have to be stuck in the out position though? I thought the starter only comes out when you crank it, and then goes back in when driving? (or in the run position)
so its not chewed up...bit if you shake the starter it makes a knocking sound? I still havent had time to put hp tuners back on, but I dont think this was enough sound to cause the KR...
I have had a broken ICM bolt where my ICM's where moving all over and it made a racket , but I stll didn't get KR because my sensors where 40% reduced and it was false. LetZride ,I'm out of town right now ,so I will get back to you in a few days. I haven't read your email yet since I don't trust Hotel wifi setups so I don't open my mail until I'm home. But Looking at your tune and you fixing the ICMS , you should have no KR once were done. Also pick up some resistors , they aree the best thing , if you want to run it all out with no false KR messsing you up. I estimated my 0-60 time at around 5 sec. running 28 degrees of timing, even in 110 degree heat with no KR , so they can take alot.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Update...so the knock hasn't gone away...scanned today and I'm averaging knock on pretty much all cells except for idle...max is 15* across entire board...but when I'm driving I don't hear anything out of the norm...I don't know what I'm supposed to hear, but nothing sounds like rod knock to me..or anything like that day the motor went
I am getting weird vibrations sometimes...but I think that could be impart to getting 0.0 dgrees advance timing at some points...
I couldn't hear anything rattling when I was under the car the other day with it idling...but there was a whinning sound coming from the tq converter area (this may of been the sound of the steering pump travelling though)
This knock has been present since the startup of the motor on straight 110 octane and has not change.
I did end up driving a few km with an injector not firing and fouled a plug as a result, I have since fixed that (this was original misfire mystery) and its running fine besides knock...
We had to take the balancer off the car when we did wires...we didn't have another crank bolt, so we reused it (I know tty) and torqued to roughly 120 ft lbs...
Another thing...the new crank pulley did not seem to be counter balanced like my old one...does this mean it may not be matched to my flex plate and possibly the culprit?
Someone mentioned the flex plate bolts, I torqued fresh ones down before the motor went in...this issue has been around since startup....so I'm leaning away from this...
Lastly, on another forum it was mentioned maybe decreasing the spark plug gap from .055 to maybe as low as .035...
that is not what I hear at all...any knock I do hear, literally sounds like it is something vibrating against something else, and it was only after you blip the throttle a little, because then the motor would shake a little more before it could settle down
I get some bad vibrations on the highway sometimes...especially under WOT...almost like a shudder kinda, but its not a misfire of anykind. I still want to say that the stutter is a result of 0.0 timing being called for...if I sit at idle and command 0 timing with hp tuners I get a shudder thats pretty damn similar.
I'll be back in town tomorrow and will send you a tune to help, I don't like Hotels with Wifi so I don't stay on too long. Steve Also did you install poly motor mounts, I thought you did m that might give more vibration, but I think I know why your getting KR and will send you a tune, I need to stop by FirebirdGT house to retune his also. LOL
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I didnt hear anything there until around 31 seconds in...and nope, nothing like that when driving...all I hear when driving is my powersteering pump whine...
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but after reading this and comparing, Im wondering if you ever found your mystery vibration culprit? After recently replacing my intake gaskets Ive been experiencing the same issues. A vibr under accel mostly. Ive noticed my IC bracket shaking on the vc but Im leaning toward the tensioner which rattles even harder with the a/c on. Im seeing ign adv at 25ºidle(was 8º before gasket blew) and up to 56º WOT. Its stock tuned. And I can hear knocking only with a screwdriver on my vc and out my exhaust tips.
I think it might of been when my steering pump rattled loose cause of the cam. I eventually figured it out because it snapped the bolt and the pump came off lol
That's the only thing that comes to mind, because the motor was fine.
Either that, or this may have been when I had the hairline crack in my valve guide and and my valve was sticking open and smacked my one valve in the new motor. Replaced the valve/piston and all was well again.
My problems was one of the two...just can't remember which this was.
Ok thanks. I know my pwr st is seeping like a mutha but the fluids always fine when I check it. It may be my exhaust also but Ive never felt this vibration before. I got a TCC code that I just cleared and it hasnt come back so Im getting leads from everywhere. Guess Ill check the pwr str pump and then my exhaust. I can see my belt tensioner moving too. The vibration is starting to make my foot fall asleep sometimes.
check the two bolts that hold the pump to the block. Are you getting KR as well on your scanner?
TCC code is the converter, how does the tranny fluid look/smell? Have you looked into the standard culprits like unbalanced wheels, bad u-joints, bad mounts, etc?
check the two bolts that hold the pump to the block. Are you getting KR as well on your scanner?
TCC code is the converter, how does the tranny fluid look/smell? Have you looked into the standard culprits like unbalanced wheels, bad u-joints, bad mounts, etc?
No KR on my scanner but the fancy one at work might show it. Ill check the pwr str when I get to work so I can use the lift. My fluid was replaced about 15k mi agowhen I installed the b&m shift kit. I used the BG chemicals ATF thats worked pretty well and no burnt fluid but my friend said it feels like 0w oil. Im sure my mounts are good after previous experience. 2 wheels have cracked lips but I balanced them back out. U-Joints IDK since the vib comes and goes during normal driving and varies in harshness through the pedal.
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