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So I tried to solder the spots on the BCM because my stereo and electronics would randomly shut off. Well once I put it all back together my car either will work fine or comletely just die if it starts at all. Everything will come on then go off.I tried to troublehoot this problem but I haven't made any progress. Is my BCM shot?????Could I have F^$# something up? It was stupid easy so why all the issues?
It is possible that you overheated the points when you were soldering, and may have damaged something that was already on its way out... I would start keeping my eye on junkyards : www.car-part.com, ebay, and craigslist... if you can find a cheap one, I would go that route...
Rebuilding the engine... Building a custom front end... T-top conversion... Custom rear hatch..
Custom interior...
did you solder the right parts?...take it out and resolder it again...did you solder properly? sounds like you did a bad soldering job if it either works fine/dies...
Well my first attempt I just dabbed the gun on the spots and I didn't even add any..Then I started having problems so I used flux and solder and I didn't glob it on or anything???I could try it again but I think it's toast! It was messed up to begin with.A brand new one from GM is about $160.It's prob a lost cause. But I may try again when I get home from work.
id try to find one at a junk yard and try that first. its hard to soder to boards like that because the soder job has to be perfect
you have to be careful of VATS, not just any ol BCM will work I believe.
when you were soldering, were you touching the solder to the gun? or were you touching the solder point and heating it up so that it completely melted, and waited for your piece of solder to melt to it as well? < because that is the correct way of doing it...also, make sure you use electronic solder, otherwise you will be waiting wayyyy too long for that **** to ever heat up and melt.
To me it just sounds like you have a bad soldering connnection, or a dirty connection, that is why it is intermitten between being fine and being dead. If you fubared the board you wouldn't be running fine at any point, the car would always be dead...
Well I F$%^ with it some more and I didn't do any justice to the situation. So I just ordered one from GM parts direct.I don't want to put in one that might be somebody else's garbage. I've heard a lot of people having this issue so I think I'm better off buying a new one...I tried to find info on this issue to see if it was resolved at the factory..but no such luck. I appreciate the input though.
you have to be careful of VATS, not just any ol BCM will work I believe.
Be aware of this^ because I believe, with OBDII, your Body control module might have to have its VIN reset to your PCM VIN. If it does, you'll definitely have a no start. Not 100% if it does or not, I drive a '94, so give GM a call to be 100%. If you do, then you might have to have your car either at the dealership (or locally well equipped shop) or just have your VIN handy.
Be aware of this^ because I believe, with OBDII, your Body control module might have to have its VIN reset to your PCM VIN. If it does, you'll definitely have a no start. Not 100% if it does or not, I drive a '94, so give GM a call to be 100%. If you do, then you might have to have your car either at the dealership (or locally well equipped shop) or just have your VIN handy.
No, this is bad info.
The only thing you need to pay attention to with a used BCM is the VATS chip in the key. The used replacement BCM will need the VATS chip in your key to match the ohm value it had in the donor car and that is probably going to be a different value than your car had. So you would have to have a new key cut with the ohm value the used BCM needed. The easy was to do this is also have the key from the donor car.
A brand new BCM will set itself to the first key inserted into the ignition when it is installed. After that the ohm value for the VATS can not be changed. Should start and run with no problems.
You should also know that cars with key less entry use a different BCM than cars with out key less entry. You can add key less entry and the factory alarm to your car by using the BCM with those options. You would also then need the key less remotes, a relay to make the lights flash and a shock sensor. The wiring is all there even if your car didn't come with key less entry from the factory.
The only thing you need to pay attention to with a used BCM is the VATS chip in the key. The used replacement BCM will need the VATS chip in your key to match the ohm value it had in the donor car and that is probably going to be a different value than your car had. So you would have to have a new key cut with the ohm value the used BCM needed. The easy was to do this is also have the key from the donor car.
A brand new BCM will set itself to the first key inserted into the ignition when it is installed. After that the ohm value for the VATS can not be changed. Should start and run with no problems.
You should also know that cars with key less entry use a different BCM than cars with out key less entry. You can add key less entry and the factory alarm to your car by using the BCM with those options. You would also then need the key less remotes, a relay to make the lights flash and a shock sensor. The wiring is all there even if your car didn't come with key less entry from the factory.
X2 BigBrian , thats why they give you the BCM's with the steering columns when they sell them , I had to change mine out when I installed a 01' SS steeering coulmn in my car because the VATS and IGN. lock was messed up.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Well I ordered one from gm parts direct. The only options it showed was for a keyless and non keyless entry system. Otherwise it didn't ask for VIN or anything else. Hopefully all goes well when I actually get it and put it in. Thanks
Well I ordered one from gm parts direct. The only options it showed was for a keyless and non keyless entry system. Otherwise it didn't ask for VIN or anything else. Hopefully all goes well when I actually get it and put it in. Thanks
~Jake
Did you read the fine print at GMpartsdirect? Where it says to call them or email them to confirm your ordering the correct part number?
Went ahead and moved my starter wire from the back, to the front again since it had no effect on my drain on the battery. Also made me nervous driving...
Building the Tom Henry RS Part 4: Suspension Mods, Tires, Wheels, Headers and other Cool Stuff. By: Hib Halverson
At the end of Part Three, we changed the valvetrain of the 3.8-liter V6 in the Tom Henry RS. We installed new, Yella Terra "Ultralite" 1.8:1, aluminum roller rocker arms, Katech valve springs and Katech titanium retainers on our 3800 Series II V6. Ultralites are nearly 25% lighter than the stock 1.6 rockers and 8% lighter than the SLP aluminum...
02-07-2020, 10:30 PM
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