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  • Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

    A guide to install ceramic coated pace setter headers (By 97rs4life)

    New vs. Old
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../278896_79.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../278896_80.jpg


    what you need
    wrenches, sockets, metric tools, pliers
    some extensions
    welder and saw
    2 PEOPLE (helpful, not needed)
    Some other odds and ends

    ***Night Before*** Soak the manifold bolts with some good penetrating oil and do it again the morning of the install to help get the manifolds loose when doing install

    1 Start up your car and get it warm to help when removing the bolts.

    2 Pull it up on ramps, block back tire e-break all that, safety (I had a lift)
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_74_full.jpg

    3 Remove Y pipe by removing the bolts and then cutting the y pipe about 1"-2" in front of the cat unless you are replacing the cat as well.
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_76_full.jpg

    4 Remove heat shields as well as the starter shield to make more room. Get the plug wires out of the way, then remove the plugs, use gloves if manifolds still hot from your warmup. Also unplug O2 sensors so you can remove the sensors once the manifolds are out (don't loose white clips that you have to remove).

    5 Remove the manifold bolts for both manifolds. I left the back stud closest to the firewall on the drivers side in because I heard it breaks a lot on people and the header fit in there with it still in the head. Made it a lot easier to install it because you can line up the gaskets and headers better this way. Passenger side I left the two studs in the head and reused the nuts and washers for each. (picture below shows 2 studs on drivers side, I removed the front one later when I couldn't get the header in there.)

    It will take longer to get stock manifolds out then the new headers in. Getting the old manifolds off took almost 75% of the time of this install.

    6 Both manifolds dropped out of the bottom of the car pretty easy. The drivers side was tight, but I was able to work it out without banging anything in to make room.
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_78_full.jpg
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_77_full.jpg

    7. As you take stock out get out the O2 sensors (or have new ones ready) mine came out after heating them up a little. I then installed them into the headers. I had to make an O2 extension for my passenger side header. For some reason it was a tad short. No big deal just some soldering and extra wire. Here is a pic of the sensor wiring harness location. It is tough to get at because it is on the backside of the engine (blue/black connection seen in picture towards top of block).
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_84_full.jpg

    8. Install gaskets and headers from the bottom. I used some metal replacement gaskets and put RTV silicone (orange stuff) around each port on both side of the gasket to help seal the gasket when I tightened them down.

    NAPA gaskets have been said to work good as well as the pacesetter paper gaskets after soaking them the night before. Also Abbott's Racing work really well and cost $35.

    New headers are easy to bolt in just start in the center and work outwards, then back to center till everything is snug.

    9. Put in new plugs and 90* spark plug wires to keep them away from the header. Put starter shield back on and anything else you took off to make room.

    10. Put y-pipe on, snug up bolts, weld to cat. I had the two piece y pipe so I welded that as well to prevent leaks.

    Header bolts are 5/16 -18 1". I went to the local hardware and got some grade 8 hex bolts and they worked great. Also stage 8 sells locking header bolts for our cars for like $56 and they are kit #6912 if you are looking for them. It is a new kit and most retailers don't carry them yet so you can order directly from them. They told me $56 is shipped.
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_81_full.jpg

    11. EGR system is a tight squeeze but it will go in. I had to grind the hole a little bit to make it easier to slide in. Make sure to use a bunch of RTV Silicone High Temp on this as well. A big problem area with the pacesetters is the EGR hookup. In the picture you can see how far away it was and how much I had to pull it in.
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_83_full.jpg

    Stand back and admire your work.

    12. Finally start it up and check for leaks. Warm it up and let it cool a few times and then check the bolts and snug them up if needed again. Then check the bolts a couple times the first week after the install, then after 100 miles, 300 miles and 1000 miles. After that you should be fine, wouldn't hurt to check them at every oil change however.

    MMM, sexy looking huh?
    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_82_full.jpg

  • #2
    Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

    Can I add an observation to this?
    Fitted Pacesetters (70-1208) to my '95 bird and found that the lower middle bolt on the passenger side header could NOT be fitted with the headers in place. On mine, I couldn't even fit the bolt with the header out of the car, the tube bends down so close to the manifold that there's no leeway for putting the bolt in the hole. I had to hacksaw a slot in the manifold flange so I could fit the bolt in the head, screwed in to almost as far as necessary for tightening down, and then slide the manifold down onto it; finish the tightening once it's in place (only half-a-turn). No way whatsoever to torque it so turn'n'hope.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

      weird, I have installed 3 sets personally and never had an issue getting bolts started.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

        I still have the stock stud on each side in the middle of my headers. Other than that bolts went in fine.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

          Here's a pic I just managed to take, showing the middle lower bolt on the passenger-side pacesetter on my 3.4.
          You can see where I had to cut the slot and that there's no way I could have fed a bolt into the hole, as I mentioned. The pipe just curves straight down over the bolt hole.
          Last edited by malc_p; 09-27-2010, 05:22 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

            You could make that picture a bit smaller..

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

              A header bolt would have started in that location. They have a much smaller head.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                Originally posted by ACiFiC View Post
                You could make that picture a bit smaller..
                Shazam...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                  Originally posted by bigbrian442 View Post
                  A header bolt would have started in that location. They have a much smaller head.
                  Still makes it more or less impossible to torque it, though...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                    Originally posted by malc_p View Post
                    Still makes it more or less impossible to torque it, though...
                    I have never seen a torque spec on a header.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                      ah, a 3.4 engine, the install guide is for the 3.8s.

                      Maybe split from the main thread so we don't start confusing people?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                        Does anyone know if I can pull both manifolds out with the Y-pipe? This is my cars 3rd and final engine in one year, and the bolts holding the manifolds and y pipe are stripped and every size socket slips on them:/ Not sure what to do other than try and pull it all out as one. Also I realized there was a hole for an O2 sensor on the pacesetter y pipe. So that makes a total of 3 o2's before the cat?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                          I'd recommend some bolt extractors or bolt outs - http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...olt-extractors they help to grip a rounded bolt head. If it's that rusted I'd just grind / cut the bolts off and replace. I would think something is going to hang up if you try to remove the headers still attached to the y pipe.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                            Originally posted by MegaHertz View Post
                            I'd recommend some bolt extractors or bolt outs - http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...olt-extractors they help to grip a rounded bolt head. If it's that rusted I'd just grind / cut the bolts off and replace. I would think something is going to hang up if you try to remove the headers still attached to the y pipe.
                            Thanks man. It was a bit hard trying to pull the whole thing out when your on jack stands but I got it! I will have to go and tighten down bolts and stuff like that.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Pacesetter Header Install Guide w/ Pics

                              A guide to install ceramic coated pacesetter headers

                              www.honest-testosteroneboosters.com/
                              Last edited by abbierowley; 04-11-2014, 12:56 AM.

                              Comment

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