System questions

[RadRacer]

Just got a semi-new HU. Went from a JVC KD-S10 to a Kenwood KDC-415S. Main reason for changing was because of the RCA outputs on the Kenwood. Right now I'm running 2 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 1's on a RF Punch 325.1 amp. I've got it hooked up with a line-output converter since my JVC HU didn't have any RCA outputs. I've talked to other who have these subs, and they all have around 800W amps hooked to them, so I was thinking of upgrading my amp sometime soon.

Here's what I have:
The Subs
The Amp

I was thinking of getting this amp: Clicky
I was also thinking of getting a Cap to go with the set-up: RF of Course

Any recommendations/suggestions?

[TheGr8Schlotzky]

Re: System questions

That will get your 325/2 which is 162.5 watts per speaker. If i were you, I would get a 2 channel amp, or a 4 channel to do dual bridges. You may have been looking at the amp seeing 600, but those speakers are at 4 ohms, so it will only run at 325. For that price you could get something that will do a much better job of getting the most out of those subs you've got.

[RadRacer]

Re: System questions

You're looking at the amp I currently have. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 600W one. Run my subs in parallel at 2Ohms the amp will give 600W, so 300W each. Quick question though, if right now my subs get distorted at higher volumes, will a bigger amp fix that? My subs hit hard, but with the HU all the way up, get the remote bass boost 1/2 up and they begin to distort a tad bit. I'm sure tapping into the rear speaker lines for the input isn't helping with SQ and switching to RCA's will make a difference, and I will be doing that soon (hopefully tomorrow)

[TheGr8Schlotzky]

Re: System questions

You're looking at the amp I currently have. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 600W one. Run my subs in parallel at 2Ohms the amp will give 600W, so 300W each. Quick question though, if right now my subs get distorted at higher volumes, will a bigger amp fix that? My subs hit hard, but with the HU all the way up, get the remote bass boost 1/2 up and they begin to distort a tad bit. I'm sure tapping into the rear speaker lines for the input isn't helping with SQ and switching to RCA's will make a difference, and I will be doing that soon (hopefully tomorrow)

If you indeed have the subs you linked to, their impedance is 4 ohms, meaning they can be run in 4 ohms. you can't run a 4 ohm speaker at 2 ohms, it just doesn't work that way.

As for distortion, most low to mid range quality HUs will distort in the highest volume settings, especially at absolute max volume. Most amps will begin to distort before they hit their "max volume" Bass boost isn't helping any either, normally bass boost is only good to about half volume, then it just adds to distortion. Try turning off the bass boost and see how it sounds.

[Earnhardt132000]

Re: System questions

That amp will work, the subs will be wired up to a final impedance of 2 ohms. So you will be feeding each sub 300WRMS, but I would be careful. The subs are only rated for half that, so if you turn it up too loud you risk blowing the subs. First hook the subs up to your current amp with RCA cables to the amp, and see if it gets any better. The distortion is probably because the gain is set too high, I wouldn't recommend using bass boost on the amp either.

Don't get the cap, upgrade the big 3 first. You shouldn't be dimming too much anyways, at least not enough for a cap.

In all honesty, I would look at some better subs and a better amp. You didn't plan on spending $560 on that amp, did you?

[TheGr8Schlotzky]

Re: System questions

^^ ah, you're right, I was mixing up my numbers thinking it was 1 sub, but other info for 2 subs. it's late. Sorry.

You should be fine with the amp you have. You are right in the RMS range with that amp, slightly above it for the subs. 162.5W per speaker is where you currently are at, and that's just about where you want to be. The subs should be able to handle the extra power, but like Earnhardt said, you better be careful, because if you are pushing your stereo to the limits, like you said you are, you are probably going to blow those subs out.

[RadRacer]

Re: System questions

OK. As for the cap, I am dimming quite abit. I'm not too sure how my dimming compares to others' but it does get kinda aggravating every once in awhile. I'll do another search on the "Big 3" but last time I could only find 2 of the wires. I didn't plan on spending that much money on that amp, I was just wondering if it would be a good one. I figured the one I had was almost a perfect match, but it just seems that I'm underpowering these subs since everyone else has a 800W or so powering them. Gonna go by BestBuy/Wal-Mart/Circuit City and a few local audio stores today and see if I can find a nice set of RCA's then hook them up when I get home tonight. I am pushing my current door speakers to their limits, as well as the HU, but the amp to my subs is turned down way low. I only have the gain up about 1/4 of the way, and the bass on the HU is turned all the way down. Then I adjust it accordingly with the remote bass boost to where it sounds good. Thanks for the input guys.

[96firebird311]

Re: System questions

Just because your friends say they are feeding their P1's 800W doesn't mean much. First off, you must realize power handling doesn't come entirely from the rating on the speakers. A very large portion of it is in the enclosure. I assume you're using a sealed box? The larger the box, the less power it will take to move the subs a given amount. And vice versa. Also, don't forget that music is extremely dynamic. Your final load of 2 ohms certainly is not 2 ohms at every frequency. That is simply a nominal rating. Same goes for power output of an amplifier. Basically, what I'm getting at is that the small amount of power you're looking to add doesn't justify the cost in my eyes. With every other specification remaining the same, you shouldn't notice too terribly much of a difference between the two amps. Is being marginally louder worth 300 bucks?? Surely not in this case. You could probably equal that performance gain by re-designing the box they are now in.

The distortion could come from several things. Because you're telling me the headunit is maxed out, you're probably clipping the inputs on the amp. Correctly matching the gain to the output on the headunit would help here (less volume knob required for more output)... but is tough when you're using a LOC. Switch to a real 4V RCA out and you shouldn't have to crank it to hear it. (provided the gain is set the same, know what I mean?) Also, your subs could be exceeding their mechanical limits. Thereby obviously creating distortion. Either way, when you hear this, your causing damage to your subs. Turn it down.

And last I checked, WalMart doesn't even sell nice speaker wire. (Thats a joke) CC and BB are gonna rape you for a quality set of RCAs. www.knukonceptz.com Nuff said.

[Earnhardt132000]

Re: System questions

Those 800W could just be the max for the amp, such as this amp...

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4855

It says 800W, but that is meaningless. It really only does 360WRMS @ 2 ohms.

I'd say keep your head unit settings at 0, and adjust your gain according to these...

http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm

http://www.resnet.trinity.edu/areynol1/gain.htm

Again, if you want, you can sell your equipment and get some better stuff if you don't like the way the RFs sound.

Also, don't buy anything but wiring from local retail stores. Everything can be had for cheaper on the internet, usually for less than half the price.

Aha, beat. It took me like 20 minutes to type this post because I got side-tracked looking at woofersetc.com for some comps that I want, but don't have the money for :(.

[RadRacer]

Re: System questions

Well, hooked my RCA's up and it sounds amazing. Definitely alot better than the L.O.C.. I think I'm fine with it the way it is now :D.