First System in the Bird...How's This?

[BattyV6]

I've done the whole stereo thing in my old cars, but never in the Bird. I think it's time to get some tunes pumpin'! How's this for the system?

Digital Audio - 10" DVC Woofer (600W RMS)
Digital Audio - 1 Ch. Amp (560W x 1 @ 2ohms mono)
Digital Audio - Capacitor (1 Farad)
Digital Audio - 4 Ch. Amp (50W x 4 @ 4ohms stereo)
Digital Audio - 6.5" Components (140W RMS)<--2 sets
JL Audio - Stealthbox
Rockford Fosgate - PA2 Equalizer <--already have
Kenwood - In-dash Touch Screen HU <--already have

Any and all opinions welcome. Also, should the cap be enough, or should I be looking at a high output alternator as well?

-Andrew

[youngcamarokid]

I work as a sound engineer with Seattle Sound Systems, and I can tell you that the cap is a waste of money. An absolute waste. Don't buy it....

Instead of looking at RMS ratings, look at SPL levels (xxdB @ 1mW or the like), that will mean you can get a higher level of volume from a lower input. Instead of trying to push massive ammounts of wattage through the speakers to get high volumes, get some really nice, expensive speakers. I use Pro-Audio speakers, the types they have at concerts, and I have a JBL D140E that I use. It's only 200watts, but the SPL is 72dB @ 1mW!!! With that speaker I didn't have to spend much on an amp.

Plus, with good quality speakers, the quality of the sound is soooo much better!

[eZD]

System looks sweet, except you only need one set of components and one set of 3 way 6.5's.

[BattyV6]

Here's all the specs on the sub:
Digital Audio - 10” Extreme Excursion Woofer w/ JL Audio Stealthbox
Model: DAW1000
120 oz. Double Stacked Strontium Magnets | Power Handling: 600 watts R.M.S. | Frequency Response: 23Hz Ð 500Hz | Efficiency: 91.1 dB | HUGE 2 Inch Foam Surround | Non- Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone | Coated for Virtually No Cone Distortion | 2 Inch 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil | Dual 4 Ohm | 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm Operation Chrome Plated, Cast Aluminum Basket* | Machined Chrome Back Plate | Extended & Vented Pole Piece |Nickel Plated Lug-Lock Terminals | Heavy Duty Wooden Gift Case
...and the speakers:
Digital Audio - 6.5” Balanced Component Speaker System
Model: DABC600
Power Handling: 140 watts R.M.S. | Frequency Response: 30Hz Ð 25kHz | Sensitivity: 91dB, 15 oz. Strontium Magnet | Spun Aluminum 1 Piece Cone | Butyl Rubber Surround | 2 Layer High-temp ASV Voice Coil | 19mm Woven Silk Dome Tweeter | Surface or Flush Mount | Component Matched 12dB Per Octave Crossover Network with Tweeter Protection | 4 Ohm Impedance | Complete With Mounting Hardware.

Hope this helps...

-Andrew

[eZD]

Hey Batty,

Where you getting your stuff from? I live in Oshawa, but ended up ordering all my stuff from the states.

[BattyV6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by eZD:
Hey Batty,

Where you getting your stuff from? I live in Oshawa, but ended up ordering all my stuff from the states.<hr></blockquote>

Ah, the 'Shwa!
From Auto Glass Plus in Newmarket, that's where I live. Great place to get anything!! Look on www.driverfx.com for anything you want. It's not their site but Keystone is where they get most of their stuff so the majority of their products on on that site...the prices are in USD though :( . Or, take a trip up, they're not too far...
www.autoglassplus.net
-Andrew

[eZD]

How much are you paying for this stuff? Cause I know that ordering through the states is actually cheaper if you examine it.

[BattyV6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by eZD:
How much are you paying for this stuff? Cause I know that ordering through the states is actually cheaper if you examine it.<hr></blockquote>

For:
sub
1 ch amp
4 ch amp
cap &lt;--which I don't think I'll get
Component set &lt;--1 set
Stealthbox
_________________
$1500 tax in CAD

...getting a huge hook up

-Andrew

[eZD]

I got my

Panasonic Ghost CD Deck
Planet Audio 5 Channel Amp
Ultimate Sound 12
Ultimate Sound Components
Lightening Audio RCAs

for $1500 CDN, ya i guess about the same price roughly

[BattyV6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by youngcamarokid:
[QB]I work as a sound engineer with Seattle Sound Systems, and I can tell you that the cap is a waste of money. An absolute waste. Don't buy it....QB]<hr></blockquote>

Should I do the alternator then? Or will I be fine?

-Andrew

[youngcamarokid]

I don't know what type of alternator comes stock with the Bird, but I suspect you should be fine. I would check when you get it installed just to make sure. Turn on your lights, wipers, and then crank up the system at idle. Check your battery gauge and make sure it never goes below 12, although it'll hopefully be around 13. If you ever notice your lights dim then it's time for a heavy duty alternator [img]tongue.gif[/img] I just wouldn't get one until you know for sure that you need it.

With the cap, the reason I say you don't need it is because of some fundamental reasoning about audio. A cap is used to give instantaneous power to your amplifier under moments of high load. At least, that's what they say it does. In actuality, it doesn't do that. The whole idea for a cap comes from the standard DC power supply. If you send an AC signal through a capacitor, it will come out appearing less of an AC signal, and more of a DC signal. There is one problem with having this sort of reasoning for car audio. The power supply is already coming filtered from the car's supply as a constant DC signal.

Yes, a cap in car audio is a great idea. But it won't make a noticable difference. I'd much rather save the $150 and get a little bit better sub or even a parametric EQ to go along with your constant Q (bandwidth) EQ that you alrready have. Oh yeah, the big cool looking metal can is also a great way for companies to make money :D

(note): if anyone really love's their cap and thinks it makes a huge difference, more power to ya, i'm just expressing the technical point of view.

[ March 26, 2003: Message edited by: youngcamarokid ]</p>

[BattyV6]

Thanks man, that clears up soooo many things for me....I appreciate it a lot.

-Andrew

[Borden]

The altenator (spelling?) is 105 amps if I am not mistaken. I have a 98 firebird as well.

[96firebird311]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Borden:
The altenator (spelling?) is 105 amps if I am not mistaken. I have a 98 firebird as well.<hr></blockquote>

Yes it is. I'll admit I didn't read this whole post..... (getting a little long for me... [img]smile.gif[/img] ) but if you plan to buy any more then 1 farad, then a H/O alt. is a much better decision. You can get a great one from dominick of Iraggi Alternator (dominick@tds.net) for roughly $250. I couldn't be happier with mine!