sunsetcamaro

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hey do you have any pics of your install? or something with a little more info on ur system
thanks

-james

[SunsetOrange98Camaro]

Im assumming this is for me. I have taken a lot of pictures of my install but it is with a 35mm camera and not a digital one. I have a scanner and everything I need to put up a page but I need to use up the film in my camera first. Give me a week and I should *hopefully* have some pictures up. Until then if you have any specific questions about anything just let me know or email me. I'd be glad to answer them for you.

[ June 12, 2002: Message edited by: SunsetOrange98Camaro ]</p>

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why are you using 2 amps? just out of curiousity

[SunsetOrange98Camaro]

I am powering 5 speakers in my system. The MTX 4244 is a 4-channel amp that powers the Kicker components in my doors and the Kicker midbass subs in the backseat area. The MTX 4250D is a mono sub amp that is powering my MTX 6000 sub alone. I have been seriously considering selling my Kicker midbass subs and replacing the 4244 with a 2-channel amp. But I also want a better set of components. So many things to do, so little money to do it with. Hope that answered your question.

[ June 13, 2002: Message edited by: SunsetOrange98Camaro ]</p>

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are you doing this for competition or just personal enjoyment? also what kind of music do you listen to? how much did everything run you so far?

[SunsetOrange98Camaro]

My system was definately for personal satisfaction only. I heard a system in a 98 Z28 and loved it. I knew I had to have one. Here is the system I heard, very nice setup. This guy helped me out alot.

Anyway, if I were going for competition I would really do some work on my system, first thing would be to lose the stock HU. But its enough for me at the moment. I mostly listen to classic rock, hard rock and alternative. The music I listen to sounds very good in my system, especially classic rock (Firehouse, Dream Theater, Def Leppard, etc.)

About the cost- I saved a ton of money buying practically my entire system individually off of eBay. Everything was brand new, in the box, still had the serial numbers and some even had a warranty. I paid half of what retail was. Some people dont like to do that but I had no problem with it. My entire system ran me about $1100-$1200. This inludes the new CD HU I had to buy to control the changer, the changer, crossover, and all wiring. Just the amps and speakers- about $850-$900.

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thats awesome. if I were doing it id probably, cut out the cd changer/remote and what not.

When I get around to it (aka get some money!) ill be sure to come ask you plenty of questions. I want to keep the stock CD HU and care more about sound quality at high volume than "bassing" or what not.
I listen to the same type of music you do, classic rock, new rock, country and such

-james

[SunsetOrange98Camaro]

Sounds good to me. You dont have to neccessarily buy everything thing at once if you dont want to. I bought my components, MTX 4244 amp, and amp wiring first then added everything else later. That way you can a least get some good clean highs in your car before the rest of the system goes in.

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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SunsetOrange98Camaro:
Sounds good to me. You dont have to neccessarily buy everything thing at once if you dont want to. I bought my components, MTX 4244 amp, and amp wiring first then added everything else later. That way you can a least get some good clean highs in your car before the rest of the system goes in.<hr></blockquote>

youd also need the PAC-OEM adapter right?

[SunsetOrange98Camaro]

Yeah your right, I forgot that important detail. So PAC OEM-1, amp, components and wiring would be a good starting point then everything else can be added easily. Once you get those few things you can let the monsoon system continue to power the subs in the backseat and the hatch speakers. The hardest and most time consuming part of installing a system is usually the wiring for the first amp. Everything else is pretty easy.

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how much does that PAC adapter cost? and how does it work, do you splice into the harness going into the HU or does it just plug in somehow between the amp/HU

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also is the sub really neccesary with the mid-bass sub/components? If in the future I wanted to add a sub would it be possible to just use the same MTX 4244 amp to power it?

[SunsetOrange98Camaro]

The cheapest place to find the PAC OEM-1 that I know of is here. The reason the OEM-1 is so popular is because its completely plug and play. It plugs in between the head unit and the factory harness. It gives you two sets of RCA outputs and a remote turn on lead for the amps.

The sub in my opinion is one of the most important components of my system. I wouldnt have a system without a sub. The component speakers will give you your highs and some midbass. The sub will pick up the real low bass, like 50Hz and below. As far as the midbass subs I have in the backseat area, those arent necessary so unless you just really want them you can leave that space empty. Also if you really want the Kicker version like I have they will probably be hard to find because Kicker discontinued them a few months ago.

You can get the components and a 4-channel amp and use the front two channels for the components and bridge the rear two channels to power the sub.