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  • Would this amp work?

    Ok so i have 2 12" solo baric L7's and am wondering what amp i should go with, the rms on one of these is 75 - 750. what do you guys think about his amp? http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOT12001

    [ January 24, 2004: Message edited by: kidkash8009 ]</p>
    1997 Black 3.8L Camaro RS {SOLD}<br />Mods:<br />Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back<br />Slp Cold Air Intake<br /><br /><br />2001 Dodge Durango R/T

  • #2
    Phoenix Gold makes quality gear. Remember, you are wiring to 2 ohms. Impedance of your L7's?
    Red 96' A4 Firebird
    Audio Audio and Autotek
    Check it out here!

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    • #3
      There DVC, 4ohm subs

      [ January 24, 2004: Message edited by: kidkash8009 ]</p>
      1997 Black 3.8L Camaro RS {SOLD}<br />Mods:<br />Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back<br />Slp Cold Air Intake<br /><br /><br />2001 Dodge Durango R/T

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      • #4
        Damn it. I was afraid of that. Tha's why I asked. :mad: You'll have to wire at 4 or 1 ohm. The amp doesn't say that it is 1 ohm stable, so ....if you haven't already bought the amp, I suggest you go with one that is 1 ohm stable. May I suggest the JBL BP1200.1? That's going to be your bang for the buck.
        Red 96' A4 Firebird
        Audio Audio and Autotek
        Check it out here!

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        • #5
          Yeah i have 4 ohm dvc's too it kinda sucks...but i will definiatly second 311's recommendation of the bp1200.1 i owned one of these and loved it...the only reason i got rid of it was to with an all JL setup (for looks). If you wanted to do that then go with a Kicker KX1200.1 they are 1ohm stable and youll have matching subs and amp...they go for about 450 new on ebay or 375 for a factory reman....good luck

          Matt
          \'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.

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          • #6
            On the phoenix gold website under the specs of the amp it says 1200W x 4ohm, what does that refer to then?

            http://www.phoenixgold.com/ta_1200/ta_specs_1200.html

            If i already bought it could i still use it?

            [ January 25, 2004: Message edited by: kidkash8009 ]</p>
            1997 Black 3.8L Camaro RS {SOLD}<br />Mods:<br />Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back<br />Slp Cold Air Intake<br /><br /><br />2001 Dodge Durango R/T

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            • #7
              It actually says "1200x1(4ohm)". That means 1200Watts by one channel at 4 ohms. So if you already bought the amp, no real big deal. You could wire your subs to a 4 ohm load and still give them 1200 watts. However, you won't be getting full potential out of your amp. If you've already bought it, just keep it. No biggie. [img]smile.gif[/img]
              Red 96' A4 Firebird
              Audio Audio and Autotek
              Check it out here!

              Comment


              • #8
                So then i would just wire them parallel to get the 2 ohm load right?
                1997 Black 3.8L Camaro RS {SOLD}<br />Mods:<br />Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back<br />Slp Cold Air Intake<br /><br /><br />2001 Dodge Durango R/T

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by kidkash8009:
                  So then i would just wire them parallel to get the 2 ohm load right?<hr></blockquote>
                  You will want to wire each subs voice coils in parallel. Then wire the two seperate subwoofers together in series. This will present the amp with a 4 ohm load.
                  Red 96' A4 Firebird
                  Audio Audio and Autotek
                  Check it out here!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If i were to change to the Kicker KX1200.1 would it be easier to wire because it is 1ohm stable?
                    1997 Black 3.8L Camaro RS {SOLD}<br />Mods:<br />Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back<br />Slp Cold Air Intake<br /><br /><br />2001 Dodge Durango R/T

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                    • #11
                      No easier. Just different. Same power either way. Which ever has the best features and costs the least.
                      Red 96' A4 Firebird
                      Audio Audio and Autotek
                      Check it out here!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        WOW I look right over the rms of that amp [img]redface.gif[/img] just do what 311 said with the wiring its SO much easier than wire the subs parallel the running them series to the amp.
                        \'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.

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                        • #13
                          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Freeser:
                          WOW I look right over the rms of that amp [img]redface.gif[/img] just do what 311 said with the wiring its SO much easier than wire the subs parallel the running them series to the amp.<hr></blockquote>

                          Yea as much as I like some of the extra features of the Tantrum, I think that i would be better off going with the kicker because wiring that tantrum is alittle out of my leauge. Although im thinking about having it installed at a shop cuz its soo cold here in chicago and if i go that route then i will go with the Tantrum.

                          -Andrew

                          [ January 25, 2004: Message edited by: kidkash8009 ]</p>
                          1997 Black 3.8L Camaro RS {SOLD}<br />Mods:<br />Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back<br />Slp Cold Air Intake<br /><br /><br />2001 Dodge Durango R/T

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                          • #14
                            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by kidkash8009:
                            Yea as much as I like some of the extra features of the Tantrum, I think that i would be better off going with the kicker because wiring that tantrum is alittle out of my leauge. Although im thinking about having it installed at a shop cuz its soo cold here in chicago and if i go that route then i will go with the Tantrum.<hr></blockquote>NO!NO!NO! Don't ever say that! Nothing is out of your league as long as you are a memeber here! :D I believe the PG is cheaper too? Buy the Tantrum. It has better features, costs less, is half the size, and I'm sure is more efficient then the Kicker or the JBL. (Both of which are power hogs) And I don't see what's so tough about wiring the Tantrum vs. the Kicker?
                            Red 96' A4 Firebird
                            Audio Audio and Autotek
                            Check it out here!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Freeser:
                              WOW I look right over the rms of that amp [img]redface.gif[/img] just do what 311 said with the wiring its SO much easier than wire the subs parallel the running them series to the amp.<hr></blockquote>

                              Somebody help me out here. No matter how many times I read this sentence, I can't parse it. I'd genuinely like to understand what Matt is trying to convey here..
                              ╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙

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