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  • Weird clutch problem...

    My clutch had been slightly slipping for awhile but still worked, then on my way home from my cabin I was passing some cars and when I went to shift into 4th the clutch went down like normally but I couldn't shift into gear it just stayed in neutral. Once i pulled over and shut the car off I could shift into gear and tryed starting the car in first(I know thats not the smartest thing) and it took off. Wat would cause this problem? I was thinking a slave cyclinder problem or ????
    97 Camaro 3.8 5 speed<br />Cat Back <br />SS rims<br /><br />Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder

  • #2
    Re: Weird clutch problem...

    probably a slave cylinder or even the actually clutch itself. How does the clutch pedal feel?
    how many miles on the system? stock clutch?

    Abbott long tubes,homemade true duals,slp ram air,whisper lid,eibach springs,kyb shocks,BMR subframe connectors, BMR LCA reloc brackets,BMR LCAs. T-top/manual converted

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    • #3
      Re: Weird clutch problem...

      Originally posted by Meatyshells View Post
      probably a slave cylinder or even the actually clutch itself. How does the clutch pedal feel?
      how many miles on the system? stock clutch?
      dude, your avatar makes me puke a lil' in my mouth everytime...

      would hydraulics have a play in this?

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      • #4
        Re: Weird clutch problem...

        It feels normal, maybe a little soft. I think I'm replacing the clutch anyways because it was slipping a little bit. The car has 150,XXX on it, I doubt its stock. Idk thought because I've only had it since 100,XXX... Anything i can check with the slave cyclinder?

        I agree about the avi
        97 Camaro 3.8 5 speed<br />Cat Back <br />SS rims<br /><br />Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder

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        • #5
          Re: Weird clutch problem...

          i cant remember if the 97s have the slave inside or outside the bell housing, but im guessing it is your clutch being pretty old

          If it is outside the bell housing then just have a friend press your pedal down while you look at it to see if it is moving. If it is inside the housing, well you have to remove the tranny and then you would see the clutch anyway.

          If your pedal feels fine though i dont think it's the hydraulics
          could possibly be your pilot bushing as well.
          Last edited by Meatyshells; 06-15-2009, 04:31 PM.

          Abbott long tubes,homemade true duals,slp ram air,whisper lid,eibach springs,kyb shocks,BMR subframe connectors, BMR LCA reloc brackets,BMR LCAs. T-top/manual converted

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          • #6
            Re: Weird clutch problem...

            I'm not good with clutchs since I've never replaced one... where would the slave cyclinder be? Since I'm doing the clutch anyways what else would be smart to replace at the same time? Btw thanks for the help...
            97 Camaro 3.8 5 speed<br />Cat Back <br />SS rims<br /><br />Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder

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            • #7
              Re: Weird clutch problem...

              i would replace the following: slave cylinder, TO bearing, pilot bushing, clutch plate, pressure plate

              im not really sure how the hydraulics work on the 97 and below cars, i know the lt1's used a clutch fork and it was changed starting with the ls1.. but if it is anything like the 98+ the slave cylinder/TO bearing should be directly behind the pressure plate, it fits over the input shaft for the transmission

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              • #8
                Re: Weird clutch problem...

                The 97 uses the same style slave as the 98+ cars. The slave cylinder and throwout bearing are a single assembly with the input shaft of the trans going through it. It is attached to the inside of the bellhousing with two 10mm bolts.

                As cam98aro said, it is recommended to replace the slave, throwout bearing, and pilot bushing/bearing when replacing a clutch. The reason for replacing these is mainly because the only way you can get to them again is to remove the transmission. With that kind of mileage, I would definately replace all of those parts. Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, make sure you either resurface or replace the flywheel and use NEW flywheel bolts when you put it back on. Any local transmission shop should be able to surface the flywheel for you. You might also want to take a good look at the rear main seal when you remove the flywheel. If there are any signs of leakage, go ahead and replace it.
                -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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