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-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
so far everything i have done has been a disaster.. sigh
i got the trans back in today, but one of those stupid clips that holds the wiring above the transmission got stuck between the engine ad bellhousing, and its jammed in there, so i may have to freaking pull the trans out a bit again to get that stupid thing off
and the dealer stuck me with a $35 price tag for my flywheel bolts :(
It would be really hard to identify the problem without actually hearing the noise. However if it has no problems going into 1st, 4th, or 5th, then the problem is most likely specifically related to 2nd and 3rd (in the transmission). The clutch/hydraulic system affects all gears, not just one or two.
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
It would be really hard to identify the problem without actually hearing the noise. However if it has no problems going into 1st, 4th, or 5th, then the problem is most likely specifically related to 2nd and 3rd (in the transmission). The clutch/hydraulic system affects all gears, not just one or two.
its just that the sound gets louder the higher up you go
it makes the same sound in neutral when you press the clutch pedal down
its hard to describe the sound.. kinda like a very fast knocking sound, or kinda of a rumbling, although the rpms dont change, i can tell it is putting a load on the engine
i know the problem is the slave/to bearing isnt disengaging 100%.. but im not sure if it is because it still needs to be bled more, or because the slave itself is no good.. i really dont feel like taking the transmission off again :(
the problem was really bad, and as i bled it more, it got better and better, but as i was bleeding it, there was no more air coming out, just brake fluid
also, i noticed a weird thing.. my rpm's are different now, like before going 45mph in 4th gear my rpms were around 2500 now they are down to 2000 going the same speed, and around 2300 going 50mph
how is this possible from just a clutch change? i also noticed that my car doesnt bog down as much going up hills
should i try to bleed the master cylinder? i am willing to try anything that prevents me from taking the transmission out again, its a real pain
thanks for all of your help, its really appreciated
Certainly before pulling the trans again I would try bleeding it with the vacuum pump method. It may or may not help any, but it's certainly easier than pulling the trans. See if you can "feel" the noise in either the shifter handle or the clutch pedal.
If the old clutch was weak and slipping some, that could explain the RPM change at speed. A weak clutch can feel like it's engaging while it's actually slipping some, creating a higher RPM.
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
Certainly before pulling the trans again I would try bleeding it with the vacuum pump method. It may or may not help any, but it's certainly easier than pulling the trans. See if you can "feel" the noise in either the shifter handle or the clutch pedal.
If the old clutch was weak and slipping some, that could explain the RPM change at speed. A weak clutch can feel like it's engaging while it's actually slipping some, creating a higher RPM.
i can feel it in the shifter.. not too sure about the pedal.. i can get back to you about that tomorrow
the old clutch help pretty good, flooring it in 4th gear going slow, the rpms didnt drop, and the car would stall out with the e brake up and letting the clutch out in 5th gear
from what i have heard it is kinda tough to properly bleed the slave using the pedal method correct? does this sound like my problem is just air stuck in there?
or do you think when everything "seats in" it will stop doing this?
Yeah, that vacuum pump will work great. And yes, bleeding the slave via the "old" method is quite difficult, thats why I think the first step here is to bleed it with a vacuum pump.
Just to clarify this noise- does it only do it when putting it into gear, or does the noise continue after you put it in gear (as you accellerate)?
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
Yeah, that vacuum pump will work great. And yes, bleeding the slave via the "old" method is quite difficult, thats why I think the first step here is to bleed it with a vacuum pump.
Just to clarify this noise- does it only do it when putting it into gear, or does the noise continue after you put it in gear (as you accellerate)?
throw out bearing tend to make noise when the clutch it to the floor, but what your describing doesnt fully fit with that.
did you replace the TOB? ive heard from a number of people that the stock TOB and pilot is better, more "heavy duty" if you will than the aftermarket.
1998 bright red camaro ,M5 ,Y87 ,stock<br /><br />Originally posted by Rune:<br />If it smells like a turd and looks like a turd, chances are its probably not a candy bar.
That really sounds like a throw out bearing problem. Given that it's new, I would get everything bled properly and see what happens.
PM replied :)
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
This is a "loaded" question, but why are you all bleeding a closed, filled system with a quick disconnect? The factory never bled the system. No need to.
My factory manual says to bleed only if the master level was too low.
Robert - owner www.FirebirdV6.com"Mid-life crisis? I'm way beyond that!"
New slave cylinders come empty. Old literature (such as the factory service manual) says that they come filled and bled, but currently they do not. Most newer (GM) master cylinders do, but not the slaves. Aftermarket parts are generally sold empty as well.
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
This is a "loaded" question, but why are you all bleeding a closed, filled system with a quick disconnect? The factory never bled the system. No need to.
My factory manual says to bleed only if the master level was too low.
New slave cylinders come empty. Old literature (such as the factory service manual) says that they come filled and bled, but currently they do not. Most newer (GM) master cylinders do, but not the slaves. Aftermarket parts are generally sold empty as well.
i put a brand new slave in also
and when i got everything hooked up, my pedal stuck to the floor the first time i pressed the clutch down
Went ahead and moved my starter wire from the back, to the front again since it had no effect on my drain on the battery. Also made me nervous driving...
20 hours ago
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