okay guys i just installed my auburn LSD yesterday and not i have a grinding sound coming from the rear... the lsd is working fine but it grinds/howls could this be a bad set of bearings if so where can i get new ones?
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bad bearing?
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Re: bad bearing?
its always a good idea to replace the bearings when you do a rear swap, did you replace the races too, the ones that matched the bearings you put in there, and it could also be the gears were put back slightly differently so they are not within their previous wear pattern, several different things it could be
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Re: bad bearing?
Originally posted by XgunsmokeXy is synthetic bad?
Zexel Torsen= Synthetic gear oil (99-02 f-body)
I always learn the hard way ;)
:)
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Re: bad bearing?
Originally posted by kalaAuburn= Hypoid (regular) gear oil + GM gear additive (96-98 f-body)
Zexel Torsen= Synthetic gear oil (99-02 f-body)
I always learn the hard way ;)
:)
I guess the fluid gets changed tonight. :mad:Last edited by 98 3.8; 07-09-2007, 10:13 AM.1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>
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Re: bad bearing?
Haha sorry man. I always learn things hard way too. I was pulling my hair out couple months ago just to find the right information. Then I went to my local GM dealership and had them look up the Master Book to find the correct info. Here's a post if you're curious what and how much stuff you have to buy. Please note I bought all my stuff from GM dealer.
http://forum.camarov6.com/showpost.p...5&postcount=19
:)
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Re: bad bearing?
I'm a bit skeptical...does it HAVE to be GM additive? Why would synthetic ruin an Auburn?
My noise also might be my DS u joints--I had a bit of play in them the other day but I thought I had gotten rid of it. The car goes back up in the air tonight to find out.1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>
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Re: bad bearing?
Read this thread. YOu will find answer :
http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=79421
Btw, I don't think it have to be dealer stuff. I would suggest you to get dealer stuff but I think any other brand would work too as long as you buy the right viscosity. I spent more than $140 for mine but it was job done right.
Originally posted by HokieBirdA synthetic is too slippery for an auburn. If you have an auburn you need some friction for the diff to lock. Hence, you put in the additive in your fluid.
:)Last edited by kala; 07-09-2007, 03:13 PM.
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Re: bad bearing?
But according to that statement (and other things I've heard), the additive will make synthetic suitable for the auburn.
I'm starting to think my clicking is the driveshaft yoke after all...
BTW: I did run synthetic WITHOUT the additive for a few miles. Once I put in the additive, I could instantly tell that the diff was locking correctly. Before the additive it would lock slowly/chatter.1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>
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