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  • Clutch pedal play after new clutch install?

    Had my centerforce dual friction clutch put in today, all said and done, the clutch is awesome.. it grabs HARD. chirp.

    but.. my cluthc pedal has WAYYYYYY to much play, and its hard to get into gear sometimes, or even shift, it feels like only two inches from me having the clutch down to the floor, everything else is play.

    anyone know if we can bleed our hydralic clutch system? or what else this could be?


    need help asap.

    thanks
    dave
    03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

  • #2
    anyone? i have to get this fixed tomarrow or im screwed heeh, is there a bleeder valve on our or (mine) master/slave system?

    dave
    03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

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    • #3
      OK... standard problem with F-body's that you just found. There is NO bleeder screw!

      You have to just pump the clutch for what seems like eternity. This is working the air up to the top. You also have to open the cap of the res. once in awhile.

      It will go back to the way you want and what you are use to. Honest.

      Steve
      FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Administrator
      Stupid is rewarded with the ban button.
      Official Avatar Nazi according to Meatyshells :D

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      • #4
        are you serious? i pumped it proly a few hundred times today.. still the same. heh
        so you say eternirty? whats that? few thousand pumps?

        so maybe theres a chance by the time i wake up, some bubbles found their way out, and i might actuall ybe able to drive it w/o pulling over cause i cant find 3rd gear? heh.. it was that bad, felt like i had a 1 inch throw pedal..

        dave

        [ April 02, 2002: Message edited by: zccop2001 ]

        [ April 02, 2002: Message edited by: zccop2001 ]</p>
        03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

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        • #5
          Thankgod Ive got a 2002... 1998+ Models come with bleeder screws according to my haynes manual! :D
          2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
          Details: www.1lev6.com

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          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by TheCardinal:
            Thankgod Ive got a 2002... 1998+ Models come with bleeder screws according to my haynes manual! :D <hr></blockquote>

            This is why 98 and 99 SS's that I know have the same problem??? cause Haynes don't know Jack :D

            Steve
            FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Administrator
            Stupid is rewarded with the ban button.
            Official Avatar Nazi according to Meatyshells :D

            Comment


            • #7
              Ahem, back to me.. how long can i expect this to be? how many times do you think it will take before i can really shift ok again? cause i was gunna bring it back to the shop and try to put a new master/slave in.. but if you think its just a matter of pumping.. ill skiip skool and pump it all day. hehh

              dave
              03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

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              • #8
                TEAL, i pumped it all mornin, took the rez cap off every few minutes, still doesnt seem to tighten up.. (i think i pumped it a good 300 times..)

                im goin to the shop to try to have them bleed the lines, the hard way. hopeing i get some life back in this pedal.

                any other ideas?
                dave

                [ April 03, 2002: Message edited by: zccop2001 ]</p>
                03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

                Comment


                • #9
                  ARGH. well looks like we can bleed it, we fabricated a longer pushrod, and it shifter ok, but till major play in the clutch pedal.. so now after droping 637$ total into this clutch job, i might still have to put a new master/slave clutch assembly in.

                  i tell ya, makes me think twice about doin anything else to my car.. althought if the new assemble fixes it nice, i wont be upset, but it seems like its deeper then just that, cause before it worked fine..

                  i kept on tellin him to check the TOB and make sure it was in right, he said there really isnt a wrong way to put it in and still have it work..

                  but whatever.. prolly will be 2 days before i get my car back, cause its really not driveable..


                  dave
                  03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

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                  • #10
                    let me know how it goes...kindof makes me worry about my clutch replacement!
                    R.I.P \'99 Firebird, you will be missed<p>New toy - 2001 GSXR-750, Yoshimura Exhaust, Power Commander, Rebuilt Airbox

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                    • #11
                      I had this problem only I couldn't even shift. I thought it was a problem in the line too but I bought a prebled system from GM with the whole unit already intact and guess what the pedal still wouldn't disengage the clutch. The pushrod on the slave cylinder wasn't long enough to hit the clutch fork to disengage the clutch. I had the transmission out 6 times and even added two flywheel shims which helped a little. I called NAPA TECH and GM numerous times until finally I decided african american engineering was the way to go. Itook the pushrod out of it and used a piece of all thread about an inch to 1 1/2 inches longer and stuck it in there and it has been working for over a year now. My car is a 95 firebird m5 and I have a feeling Im not the only one with this problem.
                      1995 Pontiac Firebird 3.4L <br />TA front bumper, TA rear bumper, 98-02 Honeycomb tailights, GM Ram Air hood, 2k C5 18X9.5 Corvette rims all the way around, custom autoloc shaved handles, camaro two tone interior, silver badging, clear front marker lenses, RK sport headers, gutted cat, dynomax dual exhaust, Rear disc rearend, Richmond 3.73 gears, Zexel torsen LSD, Cross drilled front rotors, 2 12\" MTX thunder 8000s, Clarion 400W amp, MTX 5 1/4 <br />Components, thunder 4262 amp, pioneer head unit, Hypertech power programmer (Yes it does exist)

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                      • #12
                        Hmm, you couldnt shift at all before? I have to pump the hell out of it and i can shift... i sorta hope im not on the same level as you were, cause even with a larger pushrod (which we tryed) the clutch pedal still was retardedly soft to push.. didnt feel like a clutch..

                        im hopeing with the new system from GM, it will have pressure and resistance when i push on it..

                        dave
                        03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I also mentioned flywheel shims. I added two of these which were 1/4 inch thick each. If your flywheel has been turned more than once then these may be needed. I got mine at NAPA but they are now obselete (I got lucky). How much longer of rod did you try? We had to make two or three before we finally got it right. If you can't bleed anything out of it with just using a standard bleeder gun then the GM system probably isn't gonna do anything. I hope it fixes it but your problems sounds very similar to mine except to a smaller degree. I have heard of various other cases of this same thing both on this board as well as local shops in which they ended up with a piece of all thread. Hope you figure it out.
                          1995 Pontiac Firebird 3.4L <br />TA front bumper, TA rear bumper, 98-02 Honeycomb tailights, GM Ram Air hood, 2k C5 18X9.5 Corvette rims all the way around, custom autoloc shaved handles, camaro two tone interior, silver badging, clear front marker lenses, RK sport headers, gutted cat, dynomax dual exhaust, Rear disc rearend, Richmond 3.73 gears, Zexel torsen LSD, Cross drilled front rotors, 2 12\" MTX thunder 8000s, Clarion 400W amp, MTX 5 1/4 <br />Components, thunder 4262 amp, pioneer head unit, Hypertech power programmer (Yes it does exist)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Well, your talking about a longer push rod correct? Even with a longer one, and i can drive, the clutch pedal is still all play.. really doesnt feel like a clutch, i doubt youd drive it around like this, i mean likie, you could use one finger and almost push the pedal down in its entitiy,

                            anyways, the new system should be in by 12 noon today, i hope it fixes it.. this is begining to piss me off. why would just installing a new clutch create so many problesm.. well not so many, but this one really confusing one [img]tongue.gif[/img]


                            dave
                            03 Subaru WRB WRX<br />Clear parking lights<br />Autometer Phantom Boost guage

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                            • #15
                              Ok I see what you mean now. The clutch pedal is really loose. Well sounds like your master assembly is screwed then. When you push your pedal in that is supposed to send the fluid down to the slave and push the rod. Unless indeed you do have air in the line and you're not pushing any fluid. Well either way the new system should take care of it.
                              1995 Pontiac Firebird 3.4L <br />TA front bumper, TA rear bumper, 98-02 Honeycomb tailights, GM Ram Air hood, 2k C5 18X9.5 Corvette rims all the way around, custom autoloc shaved handles, camaro two tone interior, silver badging, clear front marker lenses, RK sport headers, gutted cat, dynomax dual exhaust, Rear disc rearend, Richmond 3.73 gears, Zexel torsen LSD, Cross drilled front rotors, 2 12\" MTX thunder 8000s, Clarion 400W amp, MTX 5 1/4 <br />Components, thunder 4262 amp, pioneer head unit, Hypertech power programmer (Yes it does exist)

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