Swapping rear..............DOH!!!

[LimitedE]

A couple months ago I bought a 3.42 POSI rear from a '95 TA with an aluminum driveshaft and since then I have rebuilt the whole thing and they are ready to install. I was told by the dealer I wouldn't need a new proportioning valve or master cylinder so everything so far has fallen into place. My one question I have left is this: The main brake line coming of the '95 TA rear has a threaded end that connects to the line under the car, does anyone know if this line should have the same size threads as the original V6 brake line off the old rear?
I would hate to get the whole thing apart and have this one little thing screw it all up. :eek:

One more question. To all who have had this done in a shop before, what kind of shop was it? I have contacted numerous auto shops in my area and NO ONE will touch it because they say it's a liability. :mad:

[ November 14, 2002: Message edited by: LimitedE ]</p>

[Only4U]

w(hy)tf would you need a shop? just do it yourself. it doesn't take that much time, you just unbolt some shiz and rebolt some shiz...pretty simple. just make sure you have a torque wrench ready and also have a couple extra guys there too. :cool:

[hockeyman]

The brake lines are compatible. They will bolt right up with no problem. I agree with ONLY4U, do it yourself. You can learn alot from your car by doing things by yourself, and the rearend swap isn't that hard to do. I did it myself last July, and it took me just over 5 hours, and that included lunch and a few beers . If you would feel better by taking it to a shop, more power to ya', but you would save some serious $$ by doing it yourself. If you need help, there are plenty of guys here to give you assistance (if needed).

-Marc

[LimitedE]

Thanks peeps, I think I'm gonna attempt the install this Saturday.

[IBJanky]

It should be a stright forward swap. Brake lines will work perfectly, no new master cylinder or proportioning valves necessary. Just make sure you bleed the brakes really good.

Just make sure you get the e-brake cables that come with the new rearend, you'll definitely need those.

[LimitedE]

Cool, believe it or not I don't think the install will be the hard part. The garage that I'm borrowing to do this in is 110 miles away which means I have to find some way to put that huge *** thing in my car and haul it down there! :eek: :D

[LimitedE]

[ November 21, 2002: Message edited by: LimitedE ]</p>

[LIK2FLY]

Would the rear-end swap still be compatible if the rear was a LS1 rear-end?

[MustangEater8251]

The brake lines will match up, since you are doing the driveshaft at the same time, take the rear axle, off still coneected to stock driveshaft, and stock trowue arm and take it all off once its out from under the car.

eople said I needed abrake proportioning valve, I never did, and I have had it in for over a year.

you will need 4-wheel disc brake cables, I know one person got it ot work with stock drum cables, but I am not sure how, my e-brake hasn't worked for a year, been to lazy to pick up some brake cables.

I was able to put the complete rear in the back of my car with hatch closed, I did have to take it off the pallet though.

[MustangEater8251]

btw someone did do a ls1 rear end on to a 93-97, the rear brakes are a little bit bigger and will throw off the braking balbance a little but I doubt its seriously noticeable.

[LIK2FLY]

If I got the bigger LS1 front brakes and calipers would it be back in balance?