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  • Torque converters- is high stall bad for 3.08 rear?

    I have several questions about torque converters.

    1st: where is a good place to get one (I want 2800 stall)

    2nd: What brand does anyone recommend? I have heard Yanks mentioned a lot, but what others are out there that can give me good results.

    3rd: How much did you buy your TC for? I don't want to pay top dollar when I don't have to

    Thanks for any replies..

    [ October 07, 2002: Message edited by: Camarorulz ]</p>
    -Eric<br />2002 Navy Blue Camaro...Striped and Stalled. 35th Anniversary SS wheels <br />Best ET: 15.384 @ 88.32 on street tires<br />Project Whitney: Goal, 14.0 1/4 by summer 2008.

  • #2
    vigilante or yank will run you in excess of $600. 2800 stall is not a good stall to go with if you are going to pay the price of a "high stall" converter. i got an edge converter...3600 stall. talk to the guy, he knows a lot. it costed me $400. here's the website:

    www.edgeracingconverters.com

    http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...&f=23&t=001294

    http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...&f=23&t=001274

    these also have a whole lot of helpful information when deciding on a torque converter and also which companies build the best...
    2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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    • #3
      Would getting a high stall converter be bad for my rear differential? I have 3.08
      -Eric<br />2002 Navy Blue Camaro...Striped and Stalled. 35th Anniversary SS wheels <br />Best ET: 15.384 @ 88.32 on street tires<br />Project Whitney: Goal, 14.0 1/4 by summer 2008.

      Comment


      • #4
        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Camarorulz:
        Would getting a high stall converter be bad for my rear differential? I have 3.08<hr></blockquote>

        The converter's gonna feel "looser" on your car than it would with numerically-higher gears.
        <b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49

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        • #5
          So 1/4 mile gains may not be as substantial?? ie: if you get the converter with 3.42s in mind, expecting .5 seconds, and you put it on first with 3.08's, you may only see .3 for example?

          I'm just estimating the numbers for sake of the explanation [img]smile.gif[/img]

          [ October 08, 2002: Message edited by: ravenp ]</p>
          1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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          • #6
            I am not sure if this will help you, but I had 3.31 gears in my 76 TA with a 2800 stall behind a 327. I changed to 4.56 gear and gained only a tenth or two. It was clear to me that getting the engine into the power curve faster was more important than the rear end gear ratio. Apparently the torque curve on my 327 was broad enough that I could stay in good power when I shifted with the 3.31 gear.

            The only thing I am not sure about is the lock up converter. If there is no negative impact there I would go with the highest stall I could stand.

            A higher stall converter will definitely feel looser with the 3.08 than 3.42, but so what.

            Also, if the stall is high enough, I do not believe you will notice a difference in your 60' time between a 3.08 and 3.42 (maybe a couple hundreths), because the engine RPMs are not going to be that different at 60'.

            Where the 3.42 helps a car with a big converter stall is further down the track. After you shift gears (from 1-2 for example), the RPMs drop down and the easier it is for the engine to get back to the optimal power range, the faster your time.

            Since I have a 5 speed in my 3.4, I can't help you with the best stall speed. I can tell you that anything under 3500 will not overpower the right rear with the stock computer in my car. In order to improve my 60' times I will be adding a posi and launching at 4500 or more.
            1995 Camaro M5 3.4 Quasar Blue Metallic with T-tops.<br />K&N, Jet Stage II chip, Z28 exhaust, 1LE aluminum ds. Need more power!<br />Next: Auburn posi<br />1976 Pontiac Trans Am. Street driven. Has low compression 350 Chevy runs 12.81 @ 104, 1.73 60\'

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            • #7
              like i said, read those other topics, they are pretty useful in helping you decide stalls and such.

              3600 is what i have--it's probably about the right amount. it seems to be stalling a bit higher than that actually, about 3700. 3800 is the MOST i would ever get just because you will probably lose power once you start getting out of your peak torque area (about 4000 rpms). as far as with a 3.08 rear, do the 3.42/lsd upgrade first. honestly, i have an lsd and i can't get traction worth jack on the open road. i really have to drive my car like a baby. wet roads would be especially dangerous with half that traction.
              2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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              • #8
                Thanks, one way or another yes, I will get 3.42 gears, but I was just trying to determine in what order I would do different drivetrain mods, and if doing a TC first would hurt. Thanks for your responses everyone! [img]smile.gif[/img]
                -Eric<br />2002 Navy Blue Camaro...Striped and Stalled. 35th Anniversary SS wheels <br />Best ET: 15.384 @ 88.32 on street tires<br />Project Whitney: Goal, 14.0 1/4 by summer 2008.

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Only4U:

                  as far as with a 3.08 rear, do the 3.42/lsd upgrade first. honestly, i have an lsd and i can't get traction worth jack on the open road. i really have to drive my car like a baby. wet roads would be especially dangerous with half that traction.
                  <hr></blockquote>

                  okay... cool, but question: with 3.42's you have more spin than i would with 3.08's, so it might not be unmanageable right? talking to acouple others who did the converter first, they said it was fine.

                  it's just that it's so much cheaper to install that and i dont' have the funds to do both at once :(
                  1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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                  • #10
                    like i said before...if you are going to pay the money to get a torque converter and also go to the trouble to have it installed...might as well get the best converter you can for your car.

                    if you do get the best, then it will be a pretty high stall, say 3600, where mine is. traction with both rear tires spinning is bad enough; traction with one tire spinning, well, i couldn't imagine.

                    what i'm trying to say is that i think it's safest to get the gears and lsd first. you could always go with a low stall and then get the gears later on--but i can almost guarantee you will be upset with that decision. i have 3600 stall and i wish i had gone 200 rpms higher, see what i mean?

                    get a good converter if you are going to get a converter. with 3.08s and an open diff, traction may be no problem. but, i can't guarantee that, and that's why i say to go with the rear drivetrain mods while you are at it [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    good luck, let me know if i can help ya out any more!
                    2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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                    • #11
                      At the least do LSD. In all honesty, a 3.08 car might show better results on street tires if you had a high stall.
                      Matt<br />2000 Firebird<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/index.php?\" target=\"_blank\">FullThrottleV6.com</a>

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                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Originally posted by ravenp

                        talking to acouple others who did the converter first, they said it was fine
                        <hr></blockquote>

                        That's what I wanted to hear- that its fine to do TC first.

                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>originally posted by Only4U:

                        traction with both rear tires spinning is bad enough; traction with one tire spinning, well, i couldn't imagine.
                        <hr></blockquote>

                        Of course this is assuming I'm racing, right, not in day-to-day driving? Also, assuming I have a high stall TC with no LSD: when I race couldn't I simply launch at a lower RPM to keep traction?
                        You're probably totally right about getting the 3.42s and LSD first, but I'm looking to get the cheaper of the modifications first, whatever that may be.
                        Thanks again [img]smile.gif[/img]

                        [ October 10, 2002: Message edited by: Camarorulz ]</p>
                        -Eric<br />2002 Navy Blue Camaro...Striped and Stalled. 35th Anniversary SS wheels <br />Best ET: 15.384 @ 88.32 on street tires<br />Project Whitney: Goal, 14.0 1/4 by summer 2008.

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