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  • Best Aftermarket Converter???

    Ok, I have a bit of an issue here. I ordered a converter from a company out in Indiana called "Coan". Well, to make a long story short, the trans is apart and the converter is NOT CORRECT!!!! :mad: Now I have the option of sending it back to get a refund or sending them mine along with their's so that they can match them up and make a new cover for it. Anyway, I'm thinking about saying f* it and going with a different company. Any recommendations?? What are some ET gains some of you have seen? Thanks for the help.. this is the 2nd time I've had problems with an aftermarket converter.. maybe God's trying to tell me something.. [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]
    2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
    1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
    2011 Cadillac CTS-V
    2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
    2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

  • #2
    I have heard a lot of stuff about 'verters lately. PI supposedly is more of a efficient converter, but has a lower STR. Yank has higher STR, but lower efficiency. The latest buzz is about edge converters. they're about 2/3's the price of yank or PI, yet seem to be made of quality components. A few guys have them on the board and are now swearing by them. I say get a refund from whatever company screwed you, and go for a Edge converter. Also, some good specs i'd suggest for a good TC, 2.5 str and 97-98% efficiency, if you can get it, and of course get one w/ lock-up for highway driving.
    2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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    • #3
      You can't go wrong with PI. [img]smile.gif[/img]
      Big cam. Big stall. Big nuts.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.streetlethal.net/vids2/joenastycam.MPG\" target=\"_blank\">Idle/Rev Clip.</a>

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      • #4
        I have a Edge converter i seem to be one of the best gains from it. it is suppose to be a 3000 stall but i think it it more like a 3200-3300. I went from 2.0 60 foots to a 1.86 with alittle bit of weight reduction. On nitrous i run a 1.6 60 foot.
        <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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        • #5
          Ok, thanks, I will check into Yank and Edge. As for PI, please don't recommend them to me.. they sold me the first converter that was no good for my car.
          2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
          1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
          2011 Cadillac CTS-V
          2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
          2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

          Comment


          • #6
            Shirl, i really think the first converter you got WAS good for your car, you just didn't know how to utilize it.

            Remember, who's running that very converter today?

            The converter was a little tight (2800), but I sent it back to be loosened up and it did WONDERS for my car.

            THe key thing is you have to know how to launch with it. None of this BS brake stalling up to 3K like you here all these guys doing it. It MIGHT work for them but it'd be better if they flashed the dang thing.. but then they get worse 60's and run slower... beacuse they need more tire!!!
            Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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            • #7
              i run an EDGE verter and i pull 1.9 60ft's spinning the drag radials...

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              • #8
                I'll also add this.. You can't just slap in a converter and expect to run better. It's not like a cam, or headers, or intake where it automatically should improve your time.

                You have to DRIVE it like it's supposed to be driven.
                Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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                • #9
                  Thats the truth my converter didnt seem to wake up and start to pull times for months
                  <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    By drive it like it's supposed to be driven, to clarify.. i don't mean it has to be broken in, there is no break in..

                    But you really need to LAUNCH differnetly. Your technique MUST change.

                    stock converter i brake torqued it to 1800-2000 when I launched.

                    My converter I brake torqued to 1200 and let off the brake and at the SAME exact time I MASHED the gas as HARD as possible.
                    Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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                    • #11
                      Shirl, yank is your answer.
                      As for the other brands, just e mail me.
                      I went .7 to .8 quicker with just my pro yank 3200 and weight reduction of about 50 lbs
                      Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                      nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                      2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                      2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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                      • #12
                        Keith, not being able to "utilize" and being sold the wrong stall/type of converter are two different things. I didn't feel like going through the trouble of sending the converter back to PI for a second stall or loosening (like you did). I believe these places should get it right the first time, not waste people's time/money, ect. Isn't that why they specialize in converters in the first place? Regardless, I'm glad the converter has worked for you. Funny thing, is, I was gonna ask you if you wanted to sell it back to me!! LOL I just checked into Edge and Yank. I'm waiting for replies from both of them. I figure at least they have built converters for other people on this site already. I don't want to be a guinea pig for any of these other companies. As for learning how to drive.. I'll be the first to admit that I'm constantly re-learning because of the nitrous. I have a hard time hooking up. I know I have an 11 second car, look at the 110 trap speed. This is with the car going partially sideways through the 60 ft. I don't like to say too much about it, because I've encountered a couple of issues with tuning and traction and I don't like to talk crap or brag unless I have the timeslip. Anyway, I don't know why I'm rambling but.. the RIGHT converter will make a nice compliment to the car. So, any input will be appreciated [img]graemlins/love.gif[/img]
                        2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
                        1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
                        2011 Cadillac CTS-V
                        2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
                        2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Shirl, check your aol e-mail. I may be able to help you out. ;)

                          When I recieved the verter from you I gained about .3, not much but still a gain. I wasn't launching correctly though and couldh ave probably picked up another 1...

                          This converter I swear was worth a full second on my car.

                          Shirl, .. please.. i beg of you listen to me and trust me on this one.. ditch that 2 piece DS .. do it!! get a single piece for your own safety.

                          And,... it's time to upgrade to a 15" wheel and a slick. When you throw in a good verter, you're going to have serious traction issues.
                          Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            James, thanks.. [img]graemlins/love.gif[/img] I emailed both Yank and Edge. I'll wait for their replies. Could you give me an idea of what you paid for the converter? I saw a few different prices listed in there. I actually saw a price of $895 for one of the converters [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img]
                            2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
                            1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
                            2011 Cadillac CTS-V
                            2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
                            2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              if you go with a yank 3200- 3400 or 3600 nitrous/blower converter you will pay well over 700.00 and if you go with an edge for all your mods, you will pay well under 500.00 shipped even with carbon fber internals [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

                              [ March 26, 2003: Message edited by: SLOWBRAEATER ]</p>
                              Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,

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