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Have opportunity to buy an aluminum drive shaft from a 2002 T/A. Will this shaft fit my 98 V6 Bird? Are the shafts the same length?
I would like to install the aluminum shaft because of the higher RPM's the shaft is turning now that the 3.73's are installed. Less rotating mass, quicker acceleration, better balance, etc.
yes, it will fit, they are also different lengths, but it doesnt matter... it will just bolt right up no problem.
like fondle, i didnt notice any difference between my 2 piece driveshaft and my aluminum one.. only reason i got the aluminum one is because i got it for $40 shipped to my house.
I'm not really looking for any HP increase, just want to reduce weight, especially rotating mass.
Hey Cam98aro, Do you know what the difference in length is between the V6 one piece drive shaft and the v8 driveshaft? Could it be different yokes? Or is it in the shaft itself?
I'm not really looking for any HP increase, just want to reduce weight, especially rotating mass.
Hey Cam98aro, Do you know what the difference in length is between the V6 one piece drive shaft and the v8 driveshaft? Could it be different yokes? Or is it in the shaft itself?
IIRC the shaft that goes into the transmission is a tiny bit longer.. but its only like 1/8" or so
that's the name of the game right here ^ less rotational mass ---> less drivetrain loss in power transfer.
Mark i'll let you know how mine feels with the new gears/posi/driveshaft when it's installed. I'm expecting some nice pickup.
I spent some time today googling Aluminum Drive Shaft. Found some neat info. I was surprised to see that (depending on the car's setup) a 3 to 5 hp gain can be realized due to the parasitic loss involved with spinning the heavier shaft. Another link mentioned that owners of V6 F-bodies can actually feel a slight improvement because the lower hp motor is more sensitive to power savings. I guess this is all subject to debate, but at the very least, the shaft won't turn all rusty brown!!! :D.
Now for a documented negative of aluminum shafts....... The universal joints from the factory have a coating to prevent electrolysis between the steel bearing cap and aluminum lobes. So when the U joints are replaced, special coated caps are needed, or the caps may not come out next time!
Being a salt water boat owner, I can attest to how bad electrolysis can be. Another down side to using salt in the winter on roads.
Hopefully, I'll have the drive shaft in my hands this Sunday. Probably won't install until warmer weather.
Looking forward to reading your post about the gears, etc.
I recently swapped my driveshaft (00 firebird, so one piece steel to one piece aluminum). Took me maybe 30 minutes... (I took a break to have a sandwich in the middle of it.)
I wouldn't say it's a huge gain by any means, but it is at the very least *noticeable*.
One thing I would recommend you do is either put some lock-tite on the bolts or possibly lock washers?
After about 150-200 miles, I heard a weird rattle at certain rpms... Fiddled around, found one bolt was about a quarter turn from being tight. Tightened it back down, noise went away. Since then, I've put on a couple thousand miles, and now the rattle is back... So I've gotta crawl under there and retighten it. Probably do that this weekend, along with an oil change.
Today new U-joints went in to the drive shaft. A little tricky getting the originals out, had to heat them until the plastic expands out the injection holes. Weird, never saw anything like this before....
Anyway, cleaned undercoat overspray off the shaft, gave a quick polish with the buffer, put the yoke on the wire wheel and gave it a quick coat of black rustolium. Then installed new joints.
Soon as there is a nice day, I'll install it. Can't wait!
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