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I have that same sentiment too.
Small update. Still working on the 5 18mm bolts holding the transmission to the engine. I'm just going to give up and get a 2 foot breaker bar, instead of using the 1 foot ratchet I've been using.
Got a 2 foot breaker bar, and had that bolt out in 5 minutes! Sheesh, I shoulda done that in the first place. Got the very top bolt out in another 5 minutes too, very tight fit, used a 2 foot extension and a swivel. Now the actual pulling of the transmission is where I'm stuck now. I have it out a few inches, but am having trouble past that. I'm sure I can figure it out though. Those two holes at the very bottom of the transmission are great for getting some leverage on!
Erm...I guess? I've taken off nothing off the actual transmission itself. Just plugs, shifter, and the bolts.
what im saying is the transmission and bellhousing have to come off in one piece because of the slave cylinder/TO bearing unit
if you only loosen the bolts on the transmission itself, it will pull out a few inches like you described then not go anywhere because the slave is hitting the bellhousing
I see. Well, I have the 5 18mm bolts that attach the transmission to the engine taken off. Those are the only ones that I've taken off, aside from the inspection cover. I think that if I can get some leverage on the top part of the transmission, that would make it much easier.
I'm still having problems with the removal of the transmission. I can't seem to move it out farther than an inch or two. Sure, I can use the crowbar to leverage it an inch or so more, but it doesn't actually move out anymore. I've removed all the bolts (5x18mm) connecting the transmission and engine. Using a jack on the transmission doesn't help, since it stays up like it is regardless. This is getting frustrating...
i've read that if you jack up the front of the engine it makes it alot easier to pull. also depending on the condition of the clutch, TOB, and slave cylinder it could be holding up your transmission from being removed. if your not already doing it i would jack the front of the engine up to tilt the whole unit then just pry and wiggle the transmission into submission.
X2, the tranny needs to be wiggled out if everything is unbolted and nothing is hung up. It will take probably 2 people to be safe and have a roller under it or jack. Then wiggle it side to side pulling back, like Cam98aro said prying on it might start messing up the transmisssion. I had a single mechanic remove the tranny by himself on the lift he would push on 1 side then the other and slowly but surely it would start to come off.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I paid about $5 for 8 grade 8 bolts for my flywheel and 6 grade 8 bolts for my pressure plate. I didn't get them frome the dealet tho, I went through a nut and bolt place.
Just make sure they are the right lenght /pitch and the bolt of the head doesn't stick up as far as the stock ones. I didn't want to trust some hardware grade 8 bolts , but I have all over my suspension.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Well guys, I finally got the transmission out two days ago. Turns out the hole I thought was a lost bolt was actually the dowel rod, and I didn't look high enough for the last real bolt. I replaced everything, bled it and now the pedal doesn't seem to feel right. It is feather light, a light push will put it on the floor, although it will come straight back up afterwards. Do you think it is the clutch that is doing it? I replaced it with a Centerforce Dual Friction and replaced the slave/master cylinder with oem's.
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