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  • Car audio Myths

    1. Amplifiers should be grounded at the battery

    Generally the battery is the worst place to ground an amplifier. The battery is where all of the electrical noise from the vehicle's various parts ends up. Like a noise garbage disposal. Connecting your audio components to this noise hub is a bad idea.

    2. Adding a second battery to the vehicle will ease the load on the alternator

    A second battery will increase the load on the alternator, not decrease it. With the vehicle running the second battery becomes another load for the alternator to charge. Second batteries are only good for engine off listening time.

    3. Ground all of your audio components at the same place to eliminate noise

    Sometimes this works and sometimes it makes the problem worse. When you ground any current carrying component to the vehicle you create a circular field at that point. Poorly designed audio components could pick up this field and introduce it as noise into the system. When this is the case it's a good idea to separate your components by six inches or more. The higher the current (large amps), the more space I recommend.

    4. Routing power cables on the opposite side of the signal cables will prevent noise

    Maybe. It will prevent the signal cables from picking up noise inductively from the power cables. But it won't prevent them from picking up noise from the vehicle's chassis or from other electronic components along their path. It's a good practice but doesn't guarantee noise pickup.

    5. A high output alternator will reduce the chance of noise

    Actually it's the opposite. The larger the alternator the greater the noise output. The noise increases with the power output of the alternator.

    6. Power capacitors should be fused

    The purpose of a car audio capacitor is to deliver large amounts of current very quickly (faster than a battery is capable of). Adding a fuse, which is just a short length of very small wire, will slow down this current delivery. And because capacitors can discharge so quickly the fuse wouldn't blow before the capacitor has discharged.

    7. Adding more speakers will increase the sound quality

    Volume, maybe. Sound quality, no. The more speakers you add to a system the greater the problems you will have due to speaker interaction. Each speaker is a little wave producer and when the waves from one speaker meet those of another speaker the results are peaks and dips in the response. Generally less is more when looking for sound quality. Look to the car audio competition finals winners and you'll see that they use a small number of high quality speakers.

    8. Turning up all of the frequencies on an equalizer will increase the system volume

    The system volume is based on many factors including system power and speaker sensitivity. The purpose of an equalizer is to compensate for vehicle specific problems and not as a general volume control. Boosting all of the frequencies won't make your system louder, only more distorted.

    9. Tweeters should be placed as high up as possible

    Tweeters should be placed as near to the midrange/woofer as possible in most cases. The tweeter and the midrange/woofer are a matched pair and shouldn't be separated. Imagine an electric guitar which has a wide acoustical range. If the guitar is playing a riff in the frequency range of the woofer and then switches to a riff in the frequency range of the tweeter you'll likely notice the position of the guitar jump. Now if the tweeter is placed near the woofer the guitar position will remain in place. Better installers can make a tweeter that is separated sound correct but a much safer bet is to leave the set together.

    10. An amplifier's gain control should be set to maximum to get more volume

    The purpose of the gain control is to match the output level of the component before it (head unit, equalizer, crossover, etc.) Since car audio manufacturers don't use a standard output level like home audio manufacturers do it is necessary to have an adjustable input. Adjusting the gain too high will only cause more distortion in the amplifier's output. Since our ears perceive distorted and painful sounds as louder this is a myth that has perpetuated.

    Bottom line: Be careful who you listen to and what you believe (good advice for life too). There are plenty of folks inside and outside the car audio realm that will simply make something up if they don't know the answer (don't want to look stupid). Then there are those that have been told a lie, accepted it as truth, and passed it along. When in doubt, get a second opinion.








    EDIT:Feel free to add if any more come to mind, Ill add it to the sticky!
    Last edited by StrtRacer98; 09-28-2007, 01:36 PM.
    *Matt


    Old people shouldnt use the internet.

  • #2
    Re: Car audio Myths

    good read:tup:

    -Y87
    Lid,K&N Filter,PaceSetter Headers,Magnaflow Cat 2.5in S-pipe,Flomaster :(,3.42 LSD

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Car audio Myths

      very informative for a newbie :)

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Car audio Myths

        3. Ground all of your audio components at the same place to eliminate noise

        Sometimes this works and sometimes it makes the problem worse. When you ground any current carrying component to the vehicle you create a circular field at that point. Poorly designed audio components could pick up this field and introduce it as noise into the system. When this is the case it's a good idea to separate your components by six inches or more. The higher the current (large amps), the more space I recommend.


        Not saying this is wrong but I read somewhere that it is not a good idea to ground in different areas because of the chance of a ground loop fault (or something like that). Can anyone else back this up?

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Car audio Myths

          I have heard AND EXPERIENCED both sides of the story. We all know that multiple grounds can cause noises from ground loops. But I have already experienced times when amps pick up noise from other items on that same ground location. Simply regrounding the amp to the opposite side of the trunk solves the problem. The answer SrtRacer has given is correct. Could be expanded a little, but correct.
          Red 96' A4 Firebird
          Audio Audio and Autotek
          Check it out here!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Car audio Myths

            when i added a second battery to my audio system my volts stay right at 12V. With only one battery the amps would draw so much power that they would shut off.

            So even if it is more of a load it does help out a lot, this is with the car on.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Car audio Myths

              Best way to upgrade your electrical is to upgrade some grounds. Go get 15-20 ft. of 0/1 wire. OFC or STOFC. Either will work. Upgrade the ground from the battery to the chassis. Upgrade the alt + to battery + and put a 300a fuse near the battery. And make a ground from the chassis to the block. That alone will make your electrical so much more free flowing. Try it. It works.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Car audio Myths

                ^^^
                Originally posted by racerx3800 View Post
                Upgrade the ground from the battery to the chassis. Upgrade the alt + to battery + and put a 300a fuse near the battery. And make a ground from the chassis to the block..
                This modification is called "The Big 3".

                Do a search on the big 3 and youll find some results.
                *Matt


                Old people shouldnt use the internet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Car audio Myths

                  Originally posted by StrtRacer98 View Post
                  1. Amplifiers should be grounded at the battery

                  Generally the battery is the worst place to ground an amplifier. The battery is where all of the electrical noise from the vehicle's various parts ends up. Like a noise garbage disposal. Connecting your audio components to this noise hub is a bad idea.

                  2. Adding a second battery to the vehicle will ease the load on the alternator

                  A second battery will increase the load on the alternator, not decrease it. With the vehicle running the second battery becomes another load for the alternator to charge. Second batteries are only good for engine off listening time.

                  3. Ground all of your audio components at the same place to eliminate noise

                  Sometimes this works and sometimes it makes the problem worse. When you ground any current carrying component to the vehicle you create a circular field at that point. Poorly designed audio components could pick up this field and introduce it as noise into the system. When this is the case it's a good idea to separate your components by six inches or more. The higher the current (large amps), the more space I recommend.

                  4. Routing power cables on the opposite side of the signal cables will prevent noise

                  Maybe. It will prevent the signal cables from picking up noise inductively from the power cables. But it won't prevent them from picking up noise from the vehicle's chassis or from other electronic components along their path. It's a good practice but doesn't guarantee noise pickup.

                  5. A high output alternator will reduce the chance of noise

                  Actually it's the opposite. The larger the alternator the greater the noise output. The noise increases with the power output of the alternator.

                  6. Power capacitors should be fused

                  The purpose of a car audio capacitor is to deliver large amounts of current very quickly (faster than a battery is capable of). Adding a fuse, which is just a short length of very small wire, will slow down this current delivery. And because capacitors can discharge so quickly the fuse wouldn't blow before the capacitor has discharged.

                  7. Adding more speakers will increase the sound quality

                  Volume, maybe. Sound quality, no. The more speakers you add to a system the greater the problems you will have due to speaker interaction. Each speaker is a little wave producer and when the waves from one speaker meet those of another speaker the results are peaks and dips in the response. Generally less is more when looking for sound quality. Look to the car audio competition finals winners and you'll see that they use a small number of high quality speakers.

                  8. Turning up all of the frequencies on an equalizer will increase the system volume

                  The system volume is based on many factors including system power and speaker sensitivity. The purpose of an equalizer is to compensate for vehicle specific problems and not as a general volume control. Boosting all of the frequencies won't make your system louder, only more distorted.

                  9. Tweeters should be placed as high up as possible

                  Tweeters should be placed as near to the midrange/woofer as possible in most cases. The tweeter and the midrange/woofer are a matched pair and shouldn't be separated. Imagine an electric guitar which has a wide acoustical range. If the guitar is playing a riff in the frequency range of the woofer and then switches to a riff in the frequency range of the tweeter you'll likely notice the position of the guitar jump. Now if the tweeter is placed near the woofer the guitar position will remain in place. Better installers can make a tweeter that is separated sound correct but a much safer bet is to leave the set together.

                  10. An amplifier's gain control should be set to maximum to get more volume

                  The purpose of the gain control is to match the output level of the component before it (head unit, equalizer, crossover, etc.) Since car audio manufacturers don't use a standard output level like home audio manufacturers do it is necessary to have an adjustable input. Adjusting the gain too high will only cause more distortion in the amplifier's output. Since our ears perceive distorted and painful sounds as louder this is a myth that has perpetuated.

                  Bottom line: Be careful who you listen to and what you believe (good advice for life too). There are plenty of folks inside and outside the car audio realm that will simply make something up if they don't know the answer (don't want to look stupid). Then there are those that have been told a lie, accepted it as truth, and passed it along. When in doubt, get a second opinion.








                  EDIT:Feel free to add if any more come to mind, Ill add it to the sticky!
                  Another myth: The front door tweeters are powered by the Monsoon Head unit.
                  This is not true. All speakers are powered by the power amplifier located by the rear fender. Unplug that power amp and you will get NO sound. If the head unit was powering the tweeters then they would continue to do that after the power amp was unplugged. It wouldn't make any sense to do it anyway.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    2000-2001 Camaro Amp Wiring Diagram

                    2000-2001 Chevrolet Camaro Coupe with Monsoon Wiring Information
                    Answer The information contained in this article, is presented as a convenience and is without warranties or guarantees of any type. Due to the constantly changing nature of this type of information and running changes in vehicle production this information may not be timely and/or accurate . Any person or entity using this information does so at his or her own risk. If you find this information is different from your vehicle, do not continue with your installation.
                    FUNCTIONPINWIRE COLORAccessory 12 Volt2YWConstant 12 Volt1OGChassis Ground6BKPower Antenna3PKRemoteSEE NOTE*Illumination5BNDimmer4GYFUSE VALUEFUSE LABELFUSEBOX LOCATION15 AMP#17 "RADIO"DRIVER'S SIDE DASH ENDCAP15 AMP#7 "PWR ACCY"DRIVER'S SIDE DASH ENDCAP*If the amp does not turn on, it may require a remote lead from the extra 9-pin connector at the factory radio. In this harness there is a D.GN wire that should be connected to the amp remote lead of the new radio. Factory diagrams do not show this connection. Left Front + to Amp9TNLeft Front - to Amp10GYRight Front + to Amp7L.GNRight Front - to Amp8D.GNLeft Rear + to Amp11BNLeft Rear - to Amp12YWRight Rear + to Amp13D.BURight Rear - to Amp14L.BUVehicle Speed Signal15D.GN/WTSteering Wheel Cntrls17BUMonsoon System Amplifier Wiring
                    1234567891011121314151617181920212223242526272829303132

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