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  • winterizing...

    i'm gonna be putting the girl away for the winter (and probably the summer of next year too) so i can start getting parts together to rebuild this motor. this is my list of what i gotta do:
    1. Fog the motor
    2. Stabilize the gas
    3. take the wheels off and store them flat
    4. drain oil
    5. disconnect the battery
    6. thorough washing
    7. car cover
    8. shed a tear

    am i missing anything?
    2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

  • #2
    Re: winterizing...

    Put dryer sheets in/around the vehicle as I was told this will keep any pests like mice away(I have no clue how it works, just told this).

    Also I was told if you are going to store the car on jack stands like you are doing, to somehow "hold" (jack stands) the suspension up as you don't want it to just hang there.

    Can anyone back up the information above? I do not want to pass on bad information as I just briefly remember being told the above and not sure if I recall it all correctly.

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    • #3
      Re: winterizing...

      drain the gas. expect not to have freon next year when you take it out. expect to get a new battery cause it probably will internally discharge over time.
      2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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      • #4
        Re: winterizing...

        do i have to drain the gas or can i just use the stabilizer? does that stuff even work?
        2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

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        • #5
          Re: winterizing...

          I don't know if stabilizer works, you can just pump the gas out quickly with a $10 from walmart.
          2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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          • #6
            Re: winterizing...

            yea, i made a post without reading, carry on, good work.

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            • #7
              Re: winterizing...

              why not just start it like once a month or less? It would be better for the engine...
              2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

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              • #8
                Re: winterizing...

                i was worried that if i start it every month then each time it'll be a dry start, which is really bad.
                2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: winterizing...

                  Gas stabilizer works quite well in preventing the gas from breaking down and leaving deposits on everything. I use it in my boat (Sterndrive GM 4.3 L V6). I pour a whole lot in the tank and then I top it up with gas. I do this before I fog the engine. I will run the engine untill it reaches operating temp, then fog the engine till it stalls. This ensures distribution of the stabilizer throughout the whole fuel system. The boat will sit outside (under a cover and tarp) for 8 months and in the spring that tank of gas is still good cause the boat runs perfectly. I've been doing this to boats for 20 years with no problems yet.

                  drain oil
                  I change the oil so that new clean oil is in the engine. If you just drain the oil, the engine internals are still coated with the old oil that has all sorts of acids, moisture and chemicals that are the by products of combustion. They can promote corrosion. Drain the oil, remove the filter, put in new oil and filter, run engine till operating temp is reached and then fog to stall.

                  take the wheels off and store them flat
                  I take it that your placing the car on jack stands (to take the weight off the suspension). You can take the tires off if you are storing the car outside. But if the cover that you are using covers the tires, or the car is stored indoors you don't have to remove the tires. When I stored any of my cars I deflated the tires, but not all the way. Always left 5-10 psi in the tires to ensure they didn't come off the beads (which upsets the balencing if not put back on in the right position)

                  You can also buy coalescent bags (hope I spelled that right) to put in the passenger compartment which will control the humidity in there. (They draw the moisture out of the air) Then things won't smell weird in the spring.

                  expect not to have freon next year when you take it out
                  GM used to encourage rotating the A/C compressor over by hand at least once a month to keep the compressor seal lubricated. All you have to do is reach down and turn the compressor clutch a few turns.
                  Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)

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                  • #10
                    Re: winterizing...

                    Also, do not run the car every month! All your doing is increasing the moisture content in the oil and that promotes corrosion.

                    It has been shown that aircraft engines that were run every month when in storage had much shorter lives overall because they could never run long enough to reach the right temperature to burn off the moisture.
                    Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)

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