L67 F-bird

[caspernicus]

Re: L67 F-bird

That's interesting.

A 2bar isn't necessary, but why not if you can right?
I max the map and maf fairly quickly, but there are other tables
to compensate with.

Nice projects fellas.

[Gutless]

Re: L67 F-bird

Yeah i soppose I dont need a 2 BAR MAP, its unlikely I will hit 15 PSI anyways. Id rather port heads, swap cams and get headers than crank up the boost.

A 1 BAR would work, but the NA PCM cant read pressure anyways so its gotta get something tuned into it for the boost. Or at least thats what i understand. I guess if I can get a 1 BAR put in cheap why not. I really dont know where to start with tunes. I know it needs to be programmed for the injectors and MAP but thats where my knowledge ends.

I did get the chance to drive it more. My drivers side window is stuck and doesnt move so I gotta pull the motor and hope I can get it 'thawed'. Hot wired it and it blew my 40 amp breaker so it must be shorted out or just stuck. It seems to run better now though. If I could get my exhaust to stop hitting the floor and an air filter Id drive it anywhere.

[97RSSM90]

Re: L67 F-bird

i had mines tuned with a stock gtp 2 bar map sensor. i just hope ur running headers these engines need allot of exhaust. just browse around for local shops who can give u a good tune.

[Gutless]

Re: L67 F-bird

I wish there were local shops that do car work. I live in the black hole of performance. Ive gotta drive 150 miles to have anything with a shop tune it.

Got a little more done. I replaced the 'acc power' fuse and magically all the stuff that didnt work started to work again. :dunno: Radio, odometer, few lights. Got the AC charged and it blows nice and cool, got the intake tube installed and its just waiting for a filter and elbow. Also got a boost guage fitted, havnt got the line hooked up but it fits nice.
I pulled the drivers window motor out and what a pain. I thought G body windows were hard to work on, 4th gen F bodies flat out suck. Cant disconnect the window from the regulator or anything. I ended up taking all the bolts out and shaking the window until stuff came loose. Motor is fried or something. Wont move an inch. I also sliced my finger open when I drilled the rivits out. Spring made the mount swing around and just about cut my finger off.
Needs brake pads. Old rotors had a thick rust coating on and the pads lost probably 50% of their life on 3 stops getting the rust cut off.

Exhaust should be decided on this next week. I am thinking of going single 3" all the way to the back and a dynomax ultraflow muffler. Just going to get the long tube and axle tube from a kit and build a new S tube and then go single outlet. Right now I got a large exhaust leak and the muffler is kinda rusty so it sounds a little wierd.

Anyways a few pictures.

[Gutless]

Re: L67 F-bird

[transamtom1]

Re: L67 F-bird

Looking good:)

[g9m1c]

Re: L67 F-bird

great job man...clean install..thinking about going this route with my firebird

[ssms5411]

Re: L67 F-bird

Nice job , I'm curious on how much boost you make.

[ACiFiC]

Re: L67 F-bird

Threads like this are going to make everyone dreamers :P

[ssms5411]

Re: L67 F-bird

Threads like this are going to make everyone dreamers :P

At least we know it can be done with some elbow grease and hard work.

[Gutless]

Re: L67 F-bird

At least we know it can be done with some elbow grease and hard work.

And some stubborn stupidity to not listen to people who say it cant be done. :banana:

[g9m1c]

Re: L67 F-bird

And some stubborn stupidity to not listen to people who say it cant be done. :banana:

agreed

[Gutless]

Re: L67 F-bird

I replaced the drivers window motor, got the boost guage hooked up, and took it for a drive. It absolutly demolishes the tires. 3.42's, a posi and bald 215 snow tires is a combo for a smoke show. I can leave 100ft burnouts and not even try. Its not even boosting either! I must have a cracked line going to the boost bypass valve or its hooked up wrong because it gets to about 1PSI on the guage and stops. Its not like its leaking either because it pulls 22" of vacuume. Blower is whining loud too.

Once I get the bypass valve fixed and give it a few PSI I can test it out a bit and see where I am. I was wondering why it felt kinda slow past 30 MPH.

I am also happy to say that the trans shifts hard. The second gear shift slams you pretty hard. Guess thats what that big 700R4/4L60E second gear drop is that is talked about.

[97RSSM90]

Re: L67 F-bird



ok here i come to the the rescue. make sure on the bbv the hose is connected to the t just like shown in the pic. now for the one that goes to the boost control u can leave it open to atmosphere and it wont make a vacuum leak. and you should be seeing 6 to 8 lbs of boost but make sure u t in the boost gauge on the same line as the map sensor. make sure u run a non cambered muffler like a magnaflow or anything that flows real well. withfull 3icn maybe a little overkill if u can use 2.75 and u will have allot of room to work with mods and be fine for that bottom end response. i just recommend getting headers or 00 and up manifolds as soon as u can these engines can do KN real easy. also a full 3 inch intake would help. and man i hate my car im on stock pulley running a l32 on meth with a 5 speed and 3.73 posi. i spin all the way threw third when the clutch decides to hold. i haven't pullyed down on it but will be doing so soon. your build is looking pretty good ur getting there.

[Gutless]

Re: L67 F-bird

Thanks. Turned out my diagram I had was wrong. It showed that there was a loop from the lower port on the valve to maniflold pressure. Ill have to pull that line off and see what happens.